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faithful tribe, will not escape observation, even from a lover, who may have the object of his dearest attention dangling on his arm.

There is a road cut in distant steps which leads to the summit of this cascade; the fatigue of the walk is light even on a hot day, in proportion to the pleasure to be experienced. From the highest point the view is magnificent; but alas! whilst the eye is enchanted, and for a time roams over the long expanse of country, it at last comes nearer home, and Caserta is robbed of its grandeur. It is here seen how narrow and contracted are the grounds-the whole distance from the palace to the fountain is but a narrow strip of land enclosed by walls, which the wooded scenery shuts out when you are on the level. The grounds about this huge palace are perfectly insignificant; and although on either side the drives are winding, and the way is made the longest, by constant deviation, yet the whole is a small portion, and, as seen from the summit of the cascade, the limits are very restraint, the public road to the town of Caserta skirting the wall.

There is within the precincts of the royal domain, for that extends beyond the wall, a handsome building, standing on a slight emi

nence, clean, neat, and orderly, and this merits the attention which is ever bestowed upon it. It is a silk manufactory, under royal patronage, and built by Ferdinand I., no doubt of blessed memory here, to provide a retreat and occupation for children who, I blush to say, very considerably resemble the royal family. There is much to merit remark in the colony; and here, without we are very much deceived, and the truth sadly garbled, Ferdinand I. was the father of his people. He has left his statue as a faint remembrance of himself. must be well remembered that not the slightest tint of immorality has ever clouded the bright form of the present King, nor of his Queen; the domestic life of the one and the green inexpressibles of the other are patent— they are beyond contradiction or competition— they are singular and alone-they have no parallel in the civilized world.

It

This colony of royalty employed now in the elegant occupation of spinning and weaving silks and satins, velvets and plush, are remarkable as much for their government as their work. They have a charter of their own, conferred on them by the father of the infant state, by which they are exempt from

all interference, even of the absolute monarch himself; and this charter has been ratified by the present King. They form a complete republic in the strictest sense of the word, and admirably they conduct their affairs. Their President is elected from amongst themselves, and they have a Chamber of Deputies. Every thing is regularly voted; all are free, even outside their walls; they are a body corporate, with a good constitution.

I was very much struck with the order, cleanliness, activity, and contentment of the inmates of this establishment, which stands on royal grounds, and is yet exempt from the royalty; and it may safely be said, that if the Republic could be carried out on a larger scale, and act so beneficially as this, the sooner it is tried the better; but it would be difficult to give a dowry to all the girls of the Republic at large, such as is conferred in this Republic in miniature. It is a proof that even Neapolitans can govern themselves, under some circumstances.

His Majesty has a small palace at Naples on the Chiatamone, which is called a summer retreat, a bathing place; and this palace, insignificantly small and wretchedly placed, for

it is opposite the Crocelle, and consequently makes one side of the street, is generally made the residence of royal visitors. The bathing abode is more like a turtle crawl; and in the summer, when people generally bathe, this place must be so hot, as to set a place of perpetual penance at defiance.

His Majesty of Naples has placed his palaces generally in high commanding spots, but this is completely lost from the sea view; the eye would rest upon the Castello Ovo, or the high buildings on the Pizza Falcone, directly above the house, rather than on this small and inconvenient abode, which is unworthy of the designation of a royal palace.

CHAPTER III.

NAPLES-THE PRISONS.

LET it not be imagined, however, that the palaces are the most conspicuous edifices in Naples and its vicinities. It is true, the immense building in Naples, with its beautiful terrace, cannot be passed unobserved or unadmired, notwithstanding the excessive oversight and bad taste of having its lower apartments turned into coal-holes, or the distance between the palace and the sea occupied by artillery and exercising grounds, not to mention the hospital for sailors, and some grated windows, which look fearfully restrictive of liberty.

Quisisana, a long, straggling, badly-furnished palace, looks grand in the distance, towering over Castellamare. Heaven defend

VOL. II.

D

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