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172

RESTORATION OF ROUTINE.

that we were dismayed by it. It was issued to all on November 2nd, and carried into effect with military rapidity. The ladies' plans of nursing were upset, and they did not know what to do with themselves, so they assembled in the store-room, looking very blank, and complaining to our superintendent. The lady in charge of the storeroom, who had been thinking of going home, now laughingly declared the matter was settled, for her work was done.

In a few days the ladies saw the reasonableness of Dr. Humphrey's regulationhospital routine had been infringed upon for many months. The infringement began at a time of distress unknown in the annals of military hospitals; it had been carried on beyond that period, and the time for its discontinuance had arrived.

A regulation once made for a military hospital should not be broken. If it is not sufficient for the wants of the men it should be

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altered ; if it is sufficient it should be obeyed. However, one evident conclusion arose from this change. Some of us must return home, leaving a sufficient staff for the hospital should it ever happen (which was unlikely) to be full again. The numbers then at Koulali exceeded this.

Five of the lady volunteers sent in their resignations to General Storks. He accepted them in the kindest manner, regretting our intended departure, but agreeing that our decision was a wise one.

The superintendent being among those who resigned another was appointed, who was Sister Anne, the only volunteer lady remaining. There was, however, some rumour of the Barrack Hospital now being emptied of patients and given up to the German legion, for whom room was wanted. General Storks did not wish to do this, as he thought the landing place at Koulali so convenient for the sick in the rough weather which was ex

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pected in the winter, but he had to suspend his decision till he could communicate with the Government at home; he therefore requested our superintendent to remain in office till this point was decided.

The other three ladies and myself were set at liberty, and able to enjoy some of the wonderful sights of the East ere we returned to England. We much regretted that our superintendent could not accompany us, especially as she had never, save on two visits of business to Lady Stratford, left the hospital during her stay in it.

CHAPTER XII.

The bazaars of Stamboul—The way bargains are con

ducted in them- The cashmere bazaar-Turkish ladies shopping-The chibouk bazaar—The literary bazaar-Sweetmeat shops- The epitaph of Sultan Mahmoud-The aqueducts of Constantinople—The mysterious water palace-The cistern of the thousand and one-A surprise-A museum of Janissaries—The Atmeidan—The circumstances attending the massacre of the Janissaries—Decapitated tombs .—The mosque of Sultan Achmet-The dancing dervishes—The French hospital at Pera- The Castle of the Seven Towers—Their sad history-French hospital erected amidst their ruins.

OUR first visit was to the far-famed bazaars of Stamboul. The contrast of shopping there to shopping in Pera is striking. You hardly ever meet a Frank in Stamboul; none are permitted to reside there.

176

SHOPPING TOUTERS.

Disembarking at Galata we traversed the bridge, and on reaching the Stamboul side were assailed by a group of worthies who called themselves interpreters—their knowledge of the English and French languages ranging from twelve to twenty words, but who were able to supply all deficiencies by their abundant use of signs. In an evil hour does an unfortunate traveller engage one of these gentlemen to attend him. The presence of one entails upon you that of a dozen—they declare they are all “brothers”—and they follow you about like a pack of dogs. They only allow you to buy at the shops they select, and at all these they have an understanding with the shopkeepers by which they get a per centage on all you may happen to buy. They do not allow you to speak; they surround you, and shout in their own languages a mixture of Greek, Turkish and Armenian, till your head fairly swims, and

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