women generally, Colonel Stuart says that they are mightily fond of showing their painted faces to Europeans, and that of their morals the less that is said the better.

Now and then the royal injustice takes a ridiculous or a miserly shape:

"The old Shah understood his people thoroughly, and knew all that was going on in Persia, even to the prices of provisions in the bazaars. Avarice was his greatest political vice. When the Siph-i-Dowlet,' son of his favourite queen, the Taj-i-Dowlet, married, a short time before Futteh Ali's death, he was obliged to hire his Majesty's mules and camels, at an enormous price, to carry the presents which it was requisite should be presented at the royal footstool on the occasion! The Taj-i-Dowlet was the daughter of a seller of kabobs (roast meat) in Ispahan, of which city her son was made governor. She was brought up in the royal harem, and taught dancing and other courtly graces. It is said that to the last she retained a strong hold upon the Shah's affections, but used her influence with discretion. She is now comparatively poor and neglected; her son has lost his government, and is a mere hanger-on at the court. Futteh Ali had 105 children; the number of his wives (for every woman admitted to the royal couch is considered as a wife) exceeded a thousand!

"Not long after the death of Futteh Ali Shah, the poet-laureate was given some of his Majesty's verses to read, and asked what he thought of them. He honestly answered: May I be your sacrifice, they are bosh'-things of nought. He is an ass,' exclaimed the Shah, take him to the stable. The order was instantly and literally obeyed. After a short time the Centre of the Universe, who missed the bard's society, relented, and to give him an opportunity of regaining his favour, sent for him, and read some more verses which he had composed meanwhile. After hearing them, the poet walked off without uttering a syllable. 'Where are you going?' exclaimed the Shah. Just back again to the stable,' was the intrepid answer of the laureate! Old Futteh Ali, who always appreciated humour, called him back, and ordered the courtiers to stuff his mouth with sugar-candy, a high mark of favour!

་

"Another charming anecdote of these virtuous Kajars! Colonel Stannus, formerly resident at Bunshire, gave a very curious and beautiful snuff-box to the late Viceroy of Fars, commonly called the Firman Firma, whose army ran away from Sir H. Bethune last year at Kusr-i-chum. His Highness used to press his friends to come and see this snuff-box, and then charge them a tomaun a head for the view! On another occasion he gave out that one of his sons was sick, and that the Hakeem had declared that he must be constantly kept in a state of pleasing excitement: all, therefore, who valued his favour, must call daily, and make the child a handsome offering in money! 7!"

The mention of the humble origin of one of the Shah's

wives reminds us of one of the most remarkable peculiarities in countries like Persia and Turkey, namely, the utter absence of all hereditary or family rank. This is one of those instances in which the extremes of democracy and absolutism are at times found mingled in Mahometan countries. What a singular state of public opinion is that which makes the reproach of being a parvenu a thing impossible! When Colonel Stuart was in Persia the guards were commanded by an ex-shoemaker:

"We were received by Fethi-Achmet Pasha, who commands the guards (unworthily,' as he modestly, but I have no doubt truly said). He conducted us to a pavilion outside the palace, where coffee, sweetmeats, and chibouques were brought to us. The Sultan has lately forbidden his pashas to offer pipes to ordinary visitors. A handsome chibouque with its amber mouth-piece is a very expensive article, and a large establishment of them requires the attendance of a proportionate number of servants. Fethi-Achmet Pasha was a shoemaker, and when inspecting the barracks of the Imperial Guard, frequently instructs an unskilful recruit whom he sees bungling in the exercise of his old profession. Indeed he is even said to have given a specimen of his skill in cobbling at St. Petersburg on some grand occasion, to the great edification of the tight-laced Muscovites. He conversed with Mr. Ellis by means of old Pisani, with good sense and politeness, and seems to have some share of general information. He at length conducted us towards the abode of royalty.

"The troops under arms wore clean white belts, and were altogether the best-looking soldiers I have seen in Turkey. The worst defect under which this army labours is that of officers. There is no aristocratic class in the Ottoman empire, the members of which might by hereditary right command the respect of the soldiery; and in a new army officers cannot at once be chosen by seniority, nor yet by merit, of which they have had no opportunity of giving proof. If the Sultan would organise a model regiment, composed of active, respectable, and intelligent young men, have them thoroughly drilled and educated by Europeans of character, and then distribute them as officers in a small army, he might lay a solid foundation for a disciplined military force. A system in some degree similar has been adopted with success by Mehemet Ali. All officers of the army are now nominally chosen by the Seraskier, and of the navy, by the Captain Pasha; but the old plan of raising men at once from nothing to high situations in those professions still continues; I have observed negro officers even in the Imperial Guard. A captain receives rations and the monthly stipend of 150 piastres (about 17. 9s. 6d.), a private twenty piastres, with his clothes and rations; the latter is usually obliged to pay for boots, with which he is badly supplied by government.'

Persian politeness is as proverbial as Turkish gravity.

Colonel Stuart was struck with the universality of this graceful and most agreeable of minor virtues. Going to pay a visit of ceremony to his Royal Highness Feridom Meerza, they met with a striking instance of delicate attention. They found their host, not sitting as usual on the ground, in the posture so intolerable to a Frank, but seated on one of their own chairs, which he had civilly sent for, to put them at their At times the national taste for politeness verges on the ridiculous. At one place half the male population turned out to stare at the new-comers; but whether on foot or on horseback, they accompanied the staring with the most profound obeisances. When they bow the head they slide the right hand down the thigh. Occasionally the Englishmen found the rules of Persian civility not a little of a bore:

ease.

"I am glad that my writing relieves me from the bore of accompanying Mr. Ellis in his visits of ceremony, not having yet acquired a taste for the three cups of milkless tea, which it is always de rigueur to accept and drink. The longer the period allowed to elapse between the introduction of each round of refreshments, the greater the honour conferred upon the guest. Kaleeoons, which I really enjoy, help to fill up the intervals. It is a fine sight every day after dinner to see eight or nine servants in flowing garments enter the dining-room and present their masters with kaleeoons; and most soothing is the sound of the bubbling water, through which in solemn silence the smoke is inhaled. I like to see an experienced Persian emit from his mouth and nostrils volumes of cloud, which curl gracefully around his black beard and moustachios. It is not the fashion for any one to take more than four or five whiffs at a time; in fact, smoking a kaleeoon draws largely upon the lungs."

The profligacy of these polished men, particularly of the upper classes, Colonel Stuart was told by European residents is beyond every thing abominable.

On the whole, the general impression produced by every thing in Persia is similar to that which strikes the traveller in Turkey. All is going to pieces. Power, riches, and religious belief; all present the plainest symptoms of a condition in which national and religious existence continues rather by a vis inertia than by any living, active, and productive strength in the people and their convictions. Even in the very presence of the Shah there is a touch of that "shabby-genteel" which characterises the Mussulman's attempt at European customs, and his importations of European luxuries. The following is Colonel Stuart's account of the official reception of the embassy by the Persian sovereign:

"From the Salar's room and the dark passage I have mentioned, we entered a large court ornamented with stiff rows of chenars and

oblong tanks. A shabby pavilion of brick is built across this garden. It is here that the Shah gives audience to his subjects. The centre part, open, and lined with mirrors, contains a throne of white marble, supported by fantastic pillars; on each side are twisted columns of greenish marble, brought by Kerreem-Khan-Zend from Shiraz. The exterior is faced with slabs of transparent Maragha marble for a few feet on each side of the alcove-a piece of magnificence which contrasts strangely with the coarse brick-work, in which the holes for scaffolding have not been filled. This court was lined with the regiment of Russian deserters dressed like European troops, and with the Ghoolams,'-a species of irregular gardes du corps, who stood leaning upon their long guns. A third dark, dirty passage, full of turns, brought us into another court, or garden, which is separated into two divisions. In the middle of the first there is a 'Koollah Feringee,' smaller than our quarters at Kasveen. The second contains the usual ornament of a tank, is paved with bricks, and has a pavilion at each end. Meerza Massoud led us round to the greatest possible distance from the south pavilion, called the Gulistân, which is open in front, and so fitted with mirrors and lustres, that my eyes were at first too much dazzled to perceive the Shah, who was squatted on his throne in the upper story.

"We saluted immediately, advanced a few paces, took off our shoes, saluted again, and then, at the command of his Majesty, crossed the red bricks in our red cloth stockings (which it is the etiquette of every one to wear in the presence of the royal family), and ascended to his presence by a very steep, narrow, and ill-lighted staircase. We took our place in the corner of the room furthest from the Shah: a chair was placed for Mr. Ellis a little in front of us. The 'peacock throne,' on which the Shah was seated, was brought by Nadir from Delhi. It is shaped something like a bed, and covered with jewels. I was not near enough to see any thing distinctly of the royal dress and person; but he seemed to me to be stout, and clumsily made. Three little princes,—two of them holding jewelled swords, and the other a jewelled gun,-stood at his left hand; and six uncles were ranged on each side of the apart

ment.

"The rest of the Persians admitted placed themselves in a line with us. Mr. Ellis delivered his speech in a loud voice, and without hesitation. The Shah appeared to pay marked attention. He was perhaps rather surprised to hear sound sense, instead of the flummery which his ministers tried to put into the Elchee's mouth. He returned a gracious answer in a hurried, squeaking voice. Mr. Ellis then sat down, but rose when his Majesty again addressed him. The Shah spoke very highly of Sir John Campbell, and of the services which he has rendered to him-as well he may. The suite were then presented, and after some further conversation, we were allowed to retire. I have altogether been much disappointed with the spectacle; nothing was brilliant except the jewels and the mirrors, with which the reception-room was lined; and these last

are, after all, a poor description of ornament; for none were larger than common-sized looking-glasses. There was, by all accounts, some real splendour about old Futteh Ali's court; but the present Shah has no taste for display."

On the whole, the monarch appeared to greater advantage when met accidentally on horseback:

"We met the Shah near the walls; he graciously beckoned to Ellis to approach him, and as we rode close behind, I had a good opportunity of observing his Majesty. He is short and fat; apparently about twenty-eight years of age; his face is pale, his nose aquiline, and his countenance agreeable, though scarcely to be called handsome. He is passionately fond of soldiering, of which he has seen something practical, both in the last Russian war and in Khorasan, and is never in such good humour as when with his troops. To-day he wore the usual riding-costume of a Persian gentleman. It consists of a black lambskin cap, pinched into a conical shape, which is worn alike by prince and peasant. The material is brought from the country about the Oxus, and varies much in quality and value. An open shawl surcoat, lined with fur, reaches about half-way down the thigh; the sleeves are cut off a little below the elbow. These surcoats seldom cost less than 257., often much more. Under this a light gown is worn, reaching nearly to the ancle, and open on the sides for about a foot from the bottom. These gowns, likewise an universal dress, have slits left open under the arms and inside the elbows. A shawl is tied round the waist, and supports a long dagger with a handle of ivory or bone, sometimes ornamented with jewels. In cities, the surcoat is usually laid aside, and in winter a cloak of cloth is substituted. On horseback a pair of roomy Hessian boots, of black or red leather, are drawn over the voluminous shalwars' or Cossack' trowsers. The Shah was mounted on a large cross-made chestnut horse, with a green plume between his ears, and some jewels on the halter."

As a sample of the habits of the masses of the people governed by this ruler, so far as amusements go, the following account of a play may serve:

"I went with Ellis in the afternoon, attended by a Moollah, to see the show, in a tazeer close to the embassy. One end of the salle de spectacle was open, at the other a recess, of the same size and form as the royal box in foreign theatres, was filled with spectators. We were placed among some Persians of rank in a side gallery; the more respectable women were opposite, and below them, in loges grillées, sat ladies of high degree. A crowd of men occupied the right, and of women the left side of the floor below. We found a young Moollah in the pulpit, relating the history of Hoosein with perfect sang froid; he was soon followed by a Seyud, who continued the subject with great vehemence: women began to wail, and the men in the pit to beat their breasts, whilst the Seyud,