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agitated motion, have the appearance of trickling down the sky. Large masses of light succeeded next in order, alternating from a faint glow resembling the milky way, to the most vivid flashes, which stream and shoot in every direction with the effect of sheet lightning, except that, after the flash, the aurora still continues to be seen. The sudden glare and rapid bursts of these wondrous showers of fire, render it impossible to observe them, without fancying that they produce a rushing sound; but I am confident that there is no actual noise attending the changes, and that the idea is erroneous. I frequently stood for hours together on the ice, to ascertain this fact, at a distance from any noise but my own breathing, and thus I formed my opinion. Neither did I observe any variety of colour in the flashes, which were to my eye always of the same shade as the milky way and vivid sheet lightning. The stars which gleam through the aurora, certainly emit a milder ray, as if a curtain of the finest gauze were interposed. It is remarkable that whenever the weather is calm, the aurora has a tendency to form an arch, at whatever position it may occupy in the heavens. On the 29th of this month we were particularly gratified by a beautiful exhibition of this kind at near midnight. A perfect arch was formed to the southward, stretching from east to west; its centre elevated about two degrees above the horizon. The night was serene and dark, which added considerably to its effect, and the appearance continued unchanged for about a quarter of an hour; but on a slight breeze springing up, small rays shot occasionally to the zenith, and the arch became agitated with a gentle and undulating motion, after which it spread irregularly, and separating into the usual streamers, soon diffused itself over the whole sky. In stormy weather, the northern lights fly with the rapidity of lightning, and with a corresponding wildness to the gale which is blowing, giving an indescribable air of magic to the whole scene.

I have never contemplated the aurora without experiencing the most awful sensations, and can readily excuse the poor untutored Indians for supposing that, in the restless motions of the northern lights, they behold the spirits of their fathers roaming in freedom through the land of souls.". Captain Lyon's Journal.

But the event which most contributed to break the monotony of the scenery and of the occupations in which the navigators were engaged, occurred on the 1st of February, 1822, in the shape of a visit from a body of Eskimaux, who had just taken up their quarters in the neighbourhood, as affording them greater advantages for obtaining seals, than their former residence. As the acquaintance here commenced was subsequently renewed in a more northerly region, we defer any description until we reach that section of the journals. It was here that they first met with Iligliuk, a female of such marked shrewdness and intelligence, as to make her, altogether, the most advantageous specimen of Eskimaux intellect, that was met with throughout the voyage. Her husband, Okotook, was seized

with a severe inflammatory complaint, during the stay in this place, and, after the conjuror of the tribe had licensed his removal, he was brought on board for medical assistance, which was successfully applied. Poor Iligliuk's gratitude, however, though her attachment to her husband was remarkable, had as little sensibility as that of the most selfish of her thankless countrymen: the Kabloonas (Europeans) seem to have made a pet of her, and, as the natural result, she was completely spoiled.

I am compelled to acknowledge that, in proportion as the superior understanding of this extraordinary woman became more and more developed, her head (for what female head is indifferent to praise!) began to be turned with the general attention and numberless presents she received. The superior decency and even modesty of her behaviour, had combined with her intellectual qualities, to raise her in our estimation far above her companions; and I often heard others express what I could not but agree in, that for Iligliuk alone, of all the Esquimaux women, that kind of respect could be entertained, which modesty in a female never fails to command in our sex. Thus regarded, she had always been freely admitted into the ships, the quarter-masters at the gang-way never thinking of refusing entrance to "the wise woman,' " as they called her. Whenever any explana tion was necessary between the Esquimaux and us, Iligliuk was sent for quite as an interpreter; information was chiefly obtained through her, and she thus found herself rising into a degree of consequence to which, but for us, she could never have attained. Notwithstanding a more than ordinary share of good sense on her part, it will not therefore be wondered at, if she became giddy with her exaltation, assuming certain airs which, though infinitely diversified in their operation according to circumstances, perhaps universally attend a too sudden accession of good fortune in every child of Adam from the equator to the poles. The consequence was, that Iligliuk was soon spoiled, considered her admission into the ships and most of the cabins, no longer as an indulgence, but a right; ceased to return the slightest acknowledgement for any kindness or presents; became listless and inattentive in unravelling the meaning of our questions, and careless whether her answers conveyed the information we de. sired. In short, Iligliuk in February, and Iligliuk in April, were confessedly very different persons; and it was at last amusing to recollect, though not very easy to persuade one's self, that the woman who now sat demurely in a chair so confidently expecting the notice of those around her, and she who had at first with eager and wild delight assisted in cutting snow for the building of a hut, and with the hope of obtaining a single needle, were actually one and the same individual.' Captain Parry's Journal.

The most important part of this intercourse with the natives, consisted in the valuable geographical information which was by this means incidentally obtained. The natives were made

to sketch the outline of the coast, to the extent of their knowledge; and their descriptions, so far as verified by the expedition, were so correct as to justify a reliance on that portion which could not be brought under actual observation.

The second of July set the ships at liberty, and they made sail for the northward. On the 12th, they were off the estuary of Barrow River; a picturesque' stream, with a magnificent fall about two miles from the sea. On the 16th, they reached the island of Igloolik, which became a kind of central point in their subsequent movements. They were now, in fact, at the entrance of the outlet which they had been so long and so anxiously seeking, and which was to give them access to the Polar sea. The gratification which they felt at having reached this point of their course was, however, soon to receive a check, in the discovery of a level and continuous field of old ice, barring the passage from shore to shore. Thus circumstanced, nothing remained but to use the opportunity to the utmost advantage, and occupying the most favourable post in advance, to employ the season of besetment in land excursions and other modes of local investigation. A bay on the southern coast of Igloolik afforded the requisite shelter for the winter, and the usual methods were adopted for securing the ships, and for encountering the rigours of the climate. From the end of September, 1822, until the beginning of August in the following year, the vessels were thus stationary. The most interesting occurrences of this interval arose out of intercourse with the Eskimaux; and we shall here introduce a few particulars illustrative of the character and habits of that singular people.

The general features, bodily and intellectual, of this arctic race, are sufficiently known to render a minute delineation unnecessary: their appearance, their unsettled modes of life, and their relative civilization have been too often described to admit of any further elucidation, than by the introduction of some of the more striking facts and details preserved by Captains Lyon and Parry. The most conspicuous of their peculiarities were, certainly, very disgusting ones. The filthiness of their persons and their dwellings is so vividly painted by Captain L. as literally to turn a European stomach; and, de sirable as it may be to have a thorough knowledge of savage life, there are some things connected with it that we would rather be ignorant of, than encounter the nausea inevitably consequent on learning their existence. Their persons are ingrained with accumulated filth; their huts, compactly built with slabs of ice, are the receptacles of all kinds of dirt and offal. The animals that they procure from land or ocean, are cut up in these close and unventilated dwellings; and our country

men, when entering the narrow passages that lead to these wretched abodes, were sometimes obliged to wade, on their hands and knees, through a sludge of which we shall not attempt the analysis. Notwithstanding their entire dependence on such food as they may be able to procure by hunting or fishing, the seal and the walrus forming its chief varieties, they seem never to dream of economising their consumption, or of making any reserves of provision. Their gluttony is excessive. "We found that the party who had been adrift, had killed two large walruses which they had carried home during the early part of the night. No one, therefore, came to the ships, all remaining in the huts to gormandize. We found the men lying under their deer-skins, and clouds of steam rising from their naked bodies. From Kooilitiuk, I learnt a new Eskimaux luxury he had eaten until he was drunk, and every moment fell asleep, with a flushed and burning face, and his mouth open: by his side sat Arnalooa, who was attending her cooking-pot, and at short intervals awakened her spouse, in order to cram as much as was possible of a large piece of half-boiled flesh into his mouth, with the assistance of her fore finger, and having filled it quite full, cut off the morsel close to his lips. This he slowly chewed, and as soon as a small vacancy became perceptible, this was filled again by a lump of raw blubber. During this operation, the happy man moved no part of him but his jaws, not even opening his eyes; but his extreme satisfaction was occasionally shown by a most expressive grunt, whenever he enjoyed sufficient room for the passage of sound. The drippings of the savoury repast had so plentifully covered his face and neck, that I had no hesitation in determining that a man may look more like a beast by over-eating, than by drinking to excess. The women having fed all their better halves to sleep, and not having neglected themselves, had now nothing to do but to talk and beg as usual.'

Captain Parry had one day the curiosity to try how far a lad scarcely full grown,' would, if freely supplied, carry his powers of deglutition.

• The undermentioned articles were weighed before being given to him; he was twenty hours in getting through them, and certainly did not consider the quantity extraordinary.

Sea-horse flesh, hard frozen
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lb. oz.

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Bread and bread-dust..........................................

Total of solids

1 12

........10 4

...11 Pint

'The fluids were in fair proportion-viz.

Rich

gravy-soup

Raw Spirits

Strong Grog...

Water

3 Wineglasses

.1 Tumbler

.........1 Gallon 1 Pint.'

Captain Parry's Journal.

In the pursuit of their prey, the Eskimaux are patient and fearless, attacking the walrus without hesitation, and watching for hours the holes at which the seals rise for air. They venture with the utmost boldness on the drift-ice, and sometimes pay with their lives the forfeit of their temerity. In bodily strength they were decidedly inferior to their English

visiters.

In whatever light the situation and manners of this people might present themselves to their visiters, the following two instances will shew that self-complacency was to be found even in this distant and dismal region.

Superior as our arts, contrivances, and materials must unquestionably have appeared to them, and eager as they were to profit by this superiority, yet, contradictory as it may seem, they certainly looked upon us in many respects with profound contempt; maintaining that idea of self-sufficiency which has induced them, in common with the rest of their nation, to call themselves, by way of distinction, Innuee, or mankind. One day, for instance, in securing some of the geer of a sledge, Okotook broke a part of it composed of a piece of our white line: and I shall never forget the contemptuous sneer with which he muttered in soliloquy the word "Kabloona!" in token of the inferiority of our materials to his own.' Captain Parry's Journal.

A lady, answering to the harmonious name of Ang-ma-lootoo-ing-a, paid Capt. Lyon a visit, after having slept on board the Fury, and devoured all that she could procure.

As I sat quietly drawing at my table, and appeared to be taking no notice of her, she walked about my cabin until she procured a good station opposite my large glass, and there amused herself by putting her features and hair into the most becoming shapes, smiling and placing her head in various pretty postures, looking at her teeth, and rubbing them with a piece of paper. But her eyes, which were really very handsome, occupied her chief attention, and for half an hour she continued to twinkle them in a most amazing manner. At length, unable to contain her admiration any longer, she turned round to me, and exclaimed that her "eyes were very pretty and good." Captain Lyon's Journal.

The dog is, to this people, what the horse is, in draught, to Europeans. Both our Captains purchased teams, and derived advantages as well as amusement from their services. Three of these animals drew Captain Lyon on a sledge weighing 100 pounds, at the rate of a mile in six minutes. His leader, a powerful beast, drew singly, 196 lbs. in eight minutes; and nine dogs were competent to the conveyance of two thousand weight, a mile in less than ten minutes. The two ships were fixed in the ice a mile from each other, and

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