My little note-book of December 9 says The day was very beautiful-(like a good English day about the end of May)—and the whole way in going to St Antonio he was cheerful, and inclined to talk on any matter that was suggested. He admired the streets of Valetta much as we passed through them, noticing particularly the rich effect of the carved stone balconies, and the images of saints at every corner, saying several times, This town is really quite like a dream.' Something (suggested, I believe, by the appearances of Romish superstition on all sides of us) brought him to speak of the Irish-of whose native character he expressed a high opinion; and spoke most feelingly of the evil fate that seemed constantly to attend them. Some link from this subject(I do not exactly know what—for the rattling progress of our little vehicle over ill-paved ways, and his imperfect utterance together, made it difficult to catch all his words) - brought to his recollection a few fine lines from O'Connor's Child,' in the passage

And ranged, as to the judgment seat,
My guilty, trembling brothers round,'-

which he repeated with his accustomed energy, and then went on to speak of Campbell, whom, as a poet, he honours. On my saying something of Campbell's youth at the publication of his first poem, he said

Ay, he was very young-but he came out at once, ye may say, like the Irish rebels, a hundred thousand strong.'

"There was no possibility of admiring the face of the country as we drove along after getting clear of the city gates; but I was pleased to see how refreshing the air seemed to Sir Walter. and perhaps this made him go back, as he did, to his days of long walks, over moss and moor, which he told me he had often traversed at the rate of five-and-twenty miles a-day, with a gun on his shoulder. He snuffed with great delight the perfume of the new oranges, which hung thickly on each side as we drove up the long avenue to the court-yard, or stable-yard rather, of St Antonio- and was amused at the Maltese untidiness of two or three pigs running at large under the trees. That's just like my friend Frere,' he said quite content to let pigs run about in his orange-groves.' We did not find Mr Frere at home, and therefore drove back without waiting. Among some other talk, in returning, he spoke with praise of Miss Ferrier as a novelist, and then with still higher praise of Miss Austen. Of the latter he said

'I find myself every now and then with one of her books in my hand. There's a finishing-off in some of her scenes that is really quite above everybody else. And there's that Irish lady, too--but I forget everybody's name now'. • Miss Edgeworth,'

I said Ay, Miss Edgeworth-she's very clever,

and best in the little touches too. I'm sure, in that children's story' — (he meant Simple Susan') — 'where the little girl parts with her lamb, and the little boy brings it back to her again, there's nothing for it but just to put down the book, and cry.' — A little afterwards, he said Do you know Moore? --he's a charming fellow-a perfect gentleman in society; to use a sporting phrase, there's no kick in his gallop.'

"As we drew near home, I thought him somewhat fatigued he was more confused than at first in his recollection of narnes-and we drove on without saying anything. But I shall not forget the kindly good-humour with which he said, in getting out at his hotel door - Thank 6 ye, for your kindness your charity, I may say-to an old lame man

- farewell!' He did not seem the worse of this

little exertion this day; but, thenceforward, was prudent in refusing all dinner invitations.

"On Friday (December 10th), he went, in company with Mr Frere, to see Citta Vecchia. I drove over with a lady friend to meet them at the church there. Sir Walter seemed pleased with what was shown him, but was not animated. - On Saturday the 11th, he drove out twice to see various things in Valetta. On Monday morning the 13th, I saw him

for the last time, when I called to take leave of Miss

Scott. Dr Davy accompanied him, in the course of the following morning, to see Strada Stretta-the part of the city in which he had been told the young Knights of Malta used to fight their duels, when such affairs occurred. In quitting the street, Sir Walter looked round him earnestly, and said .' It will be hard if I cannot make something of this.'

On that day, Tuesday morning, December 14th, he and his party went again on board the Barham, and sailed for Naples."

VOL. X.

K

CHAPTER LXXXII.

Residence at Naples Excursions to Pæstum, Pompeii, &c.- Last Attempts in RomanceSir William Gell's Memoranda.

DEC. 1831-APRIL 1832.

ON the 17th of December, the Barham reached Naples, and Sir Walter found his son Charles ready to receive him. The quarantine was cut short by the courtesy of the King of Naples, and the travellers established themselves in an apartment of the Palazzo Caramanico.

Here again the British Minister, Mr Hill (now Lord Berwick), and the English nobility and gentry then residing in Naples, did whatever kindness and respect could suggest for Sir Walter; nor were the natives, and their visitants from foreign countries, less attentive. The Marquis of Hertford, the Hon. Keppel Craven, the Hon. William Ashley and his