Translated for the Protestant Churchman, from the German of Then suddenly burst from their heights above,

From Chambers' Journal. A FEW DAYS IN A FRENCH CHATEAU.

BY A LADY.

of which are associated in the mind with the brilliant court of Louis XIV. The loyalists who have retained their fortunes display their taste for magnificence only in the sumptuous adornment of I OFTEN wonder at what has been a thousand their palace-like houses, and in the splendor of times wondered at already—the remarkable re- their equipages. The brilliant toilette, so dear to semblance between the course of events in Eng-all other Frenchwomen, is by the ladies of these lish and French history. A king possessing many families discarded, and replaced by the neatest and good qualities, falling on evil times, is carried by most simple attire. Their manners partake of the his people to the scaffold. Next follows a pre- same simple character; they are frank, and at the tended republic, which merges in a military des- same time polite; merry without being boisterous, potism. This ends, and then comes back the old and never exacting; for they have been schooled reigning family. But this family not conducting by that best of teachers-adversity; itself properly, loses the popular affection, is turned adrift, and a far-off cousin is elected king. To make the parallel pretty nearly complete, the family of the dethroned monarch lives in a distant land, hoping for better times, and retains a hold on the loyalty and compassion of certain old families of distinction, whose feelings cannot brook an unhesitating submission to the powers that be. One thing more, indeed, as respects France is still wanting to render the resemblance complete-an insurrection led on by these old-fashioned loyalists, and fruitless in everything but utter ruin to their expiring cause.

A previous acquaintance in London with certain members of one of these ancient and noble families, was now fortunately instrumental in bringing us an invitation to spend a few days with them and their venerable relative at their seat in the country; and as life in a French chateau can be but little known in England, I propose-adopting, as may be supposed, fictitious titles-to attempt a sketch of what fell under our observation at the chateau of our new but valued friend.

The Comte de Beaulieu, one of the sons-in-law of the nobleman to whose country-house we had been so hospitably invited, offered to come to Paris to escort us to Linière; but this stretch of politeness we positively declined, and only would consent to meet him at Versailles, where we intended to remain for a few days previous to quitting France. Behold our party, then, at Ver

No such mad freak having yet occurred, the legitimists of France, as they are pleased to term themselves, occupy a position parallel with the Jacobites in Scotland and the Cavaliers in England, a short time before their annihilation as a party by the rebellion of 1745. In the same man-sailles, where, on the appointed day, the comte ner that these sturdy Jacobites and Cavaliers used to shun the court of George I. and II., and live in grumbling retirement in their old castles and halls, so do the legitimists of France eschew the court of Louis Philippe, and shutting themselves up in their chateaux or their town mansions, live but for their families, and dream only of a second restoration. James III. was "the king over the water," who, the Cavalier party declared, should one day" enjoy his own again;" the young Duke of Bourdeaux (nominally Henri V.) is the object of veneration among the saddened adherents of the Bourbons.

Visionary as everybody now allows the projects of the Cavaliers and Jacobites to have been, nothing can make me disbelieve them to have been a noble set of men-gentlemen of high principle, brave, generous; their very misfortunes making one almost love them in spite of their manifold errors. Had I lived a hundred years ago, I dare say I should have attended the ball of "the prince" in Holyrood, at least if so gallant a personage as Fergus M'Ivor had asked me. I am certain I should have wept the fate of Lords Kilmarnock and Balmerino and Charles Ratcliffe; and even now I have a degree of tender regard for the "bonny white rose," the emblem of the unfortunate house of Stuart. Of such poetical inclinations, it will not be thought surprising that, on a late visit to Paris, with a party of friends, I should have wished to see and know something of the old loyalist families who still cling to the fleur-de-listhe De Sullys, the De Montmorencies, the De Choiseuls, and other remnants of the shattered noblesse.

made his appearance; and after an interesting stroll with him through some of the private apartments of the palace, to which he had special access, we set off for Linière early in the afternoon, and under as bright a sun as ever shone on la belle France, being preceded by the comte, who drove an elegant open carriage, built from a design of his own, and drawn by a pair of fine English bay horses. The excursion was short and delightful. Passing through a district of country tolerably wooded, we had here and there a glimpse of an old chateau, whose white walls contrasted finely with the bright green of the trees which surrounded it, and were thus prepared for what we might expect at the conclusion of our drive. On we went, and in about two hours arrived at the park gates of Linière. At the head of an avenue of trees stood the mansion, a fine pile of building, with a spacious flight of steps in the middle, from the top of which, on each side, branched off a terrace with a balustrade of stone running across the front of the chateau. The steps at both sides were flanked by quantities of geranium and other fragrant plants in full bloom, which imparted an air of elegance to the scene.

At our near approach, the venerable master of the house, the Marquis de Tourville, accompanied by another of his sons-in law, the Vicomte de Saint Prosper, descended the steps where they had been waiting some time. The truly hospitable and kind manner in which we were thus welcomed, could only be equalled by that which we experienced from the ladies, when, a few moments after,. we arrived at the vestibule, where they reiterated the same kind expressions in the most engaging In ordinary circumstances it is no easy matter manner. We then walked through the anteto become acquainted with these families; for chamber and billiard-room into the drawing-room, they do not mingle much in general society. The where we chatted for a short time, and then adfew who dwell in Paris reside in the Fauxbourg journed up stairs, preceded by the Marchioness St. Germain, a quartier which has now become and the Countess de Beaulieu, who pointed out our synonymous with their party, and the inhabitants individual apartments, and quickly retired, warn

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ing us that we had not much time before dinner | dishes. After three courses, which would have for the duties of the toilet. In a short time the done credit to Ude himself, the table, with the great dinner bell rung, and when the ladies tapped cloth still on, was replenished with the most deat our door to conduct us to the drawing-room, we licious fruits, sweetmeats, and iced creams. were not quite prepared to descend. When we The conversation during dinner, which lasted made our appearance in the drawing-room, we about two hours, was lively and entertaining. found all the family assembled therefore, whilst A number of merry stories were related of the waiting for the announcement of dinner, let me mistakes made by English people in France, and describe our host, hostess, and family. The mar- vice versa; indeed the Comtesse de Beaulieu told quis numbers more than seventy years, although some very laughable anecdotes of her own expehe does not appear so old: from his military bear-rience in London. After finger-glasses were ing, no portion of his height is lost, and this, com-handed round, we were all escorted back again in bined with an aqueline nose and eagle eye, give the same order to the drawing-room. On the way, him such an imposing presence, that one cannot we saw eight lovely little girls, all dressed alike, approach him without feeling a degree of awe. playing in the billiard-room. They accompanied From infancy he had been in attendance upon us into the drawing-room, and as soon as coffee Maria Antoinette, as his family was one of those was dispensed, the party quickly broke into little who enjoyed the intimate acquaintance of that un- social knots. Music, conversation, and looking at fortunate queen. the gentlemen playing billiards in the adjoining apartment, made the evening pass most agreeably. When the drawing-room was lighting up, a new contrivance struck us as having a pretty effect. Two brilliant lamps were placed in superb china vases, on each side of the mantel-piece, throwing down a light upon a pyramidal stand of flowers, which entirely concealed the fireplace. Tea was served at a late hour. The marquis told us that, although they always had this beverage in Paris, they had not yet habituated themselves to it in the country. Tea, indeed, is still a rare luxury among the French.

The marquis in early life joined the allied army, and is linked in the dearest bonds of friendship with some of our brave old generals with whom he had served. After the Restoration, he was reinstated in his former rank and position, and succeeded in regaining a great part of his fortune. When Charles X. ascended the throne, he was intrusted with a high and responsible command of great honor, which he filled up to the moment of the Revolution. He has ever since lived apart from the court, and never takes his seat in the Chamber of Peers unless some question involving the vital interests of his country is to be agitated. We had been so long accustomed to the narrow The marchioness is the descendant of one of the and uncomfortable beds in French hotels, that most renowned families in France her mother when, on having retired for the night, we sunk in and grandmother both perished under the guillo-capacious down couches, with linen akin to camtine. She has passed middle life, is peculiarly bric, and pillows trimmed with fine lace, we could graceful both in person and manner, has a sweet scarcely credit our senses that we were really in but sad expression of countenance, and in youth must have been beautiful. She dresses to perfection; never tries, by any youthful denudings, to take one year off her age; and wears her own nice gray hair. Her family consists of three daughters, who are all married. The eldest, the Countess de Beaulieu, always resides with her parents; she is an elegant, self-possessed, intelligent woman, with a very engaging expression, and excels in music and painting. She has six children. The comte, who is the heir of a house as ancient as that of his wife, is a handsome, darkcomplexioned man, and highly accomplished. "The youngest daughter, who was staying here, resembles a lovely young Englishwoman; she is a beautiful blonde, and is married to the Vicomte de Saint Prosper, eldest son of the Duke de Saint Prosper, with whom they reside nine months every year, the other three being passed at Linière. The vicomte is a tall, handsome, fair-complexioned man, and so much like a John Bull, that he has frequently been mistaken for an Englishman. They have also six children.

On dinner being announced, the marquis politely offered one of us his arm, with the air of an old cavalier, and the rest of the company followed. According to French custom, the host and hostess sat at opposite sides of the table, on which the display was simple and tasteful, the eye being feasted as well as the palate. I was particularly struck with a large and handsome basket occupying the middle of the table, and filled with the most beautiful flowers. As soon as the soups were despatched, and the covers removed, an immense joint of roasted beef, as a compliment to us, stood revealed, towering over all the delicate

France. We arose early to enjoy the delightful view from our windows. The beautiful park, studded with lofty clumps of trees, reminded us of merry England. At eight o'clock the waitingmaid of the marchioness brought in a large tray covered with a napkin, upon which were placed tea, coffee, hot rolls, butter in curious devices covered with pieces of ice, and sundry kinds of cakes quite hot. The cups and saucers were each ornamented by a marquis' coronet, and were of the finest Sèvres china. The entire establishment being conducted by men-servants, with the exception of the respective waiting-maids and nursery attendants, was the reason that the marchioness, in consideration of our English prejudices, was so kind as to let her own maid bring in our breakfast, which we enjoyed very much.

Fain would we now have rambled about the grounds, but, knowing that it is customary for the ladies to stay in their own rooms until the bell for the grand dejuner, or general breakfast, summons all the family, we constrained ourselves to conform to the rules of the house. By adhering to this plan, each separate family is enabled to make their own private arrangements, and give their orders for the day, the remainder of which they spend together free from household cares. The ladies have each a cup of coffee at eight o'clock, or earlier, and the gentlemen also when they are indisposed, but not otherwise. Prevented from going out, we took the opportunity of taking a look round the apartments allotted for our use. Our bedrooms were very large, carpeted all over, and superbly furnished with footstools, arm and small chairs, sofas, marble-topped cabinets, chests of drawers, dressing-tables, and last, but certainly

not least in our estimation, capacious mahogany children were assembled, preparatory to their bedsteads, terminating at each end in Greek scrolls, walking out. They breakfast at halfpast seven and provided with two sets of curtains, appended o'clock, and have all their lessons over by twelve, to a gilt coronet fastened into the wall, the out-after which they take exercise and dine. Music, side hangings light-colored silk, to match the win-reading, and different kinds of needlework occupy dow-curtains, the inside ones fine clear white mus-them until five o'clock, when they take some light lin. In the centre of each bedroom stood a library supper, and appear in the drawing-room, after table, furnished with writing materials, matches, their parents' dinner, for about an hour-a cuswafers, almanacs, wherein the saints' days were tom which is infinitely preferable to the English peculiarly notified; and these articles complete the habit of admitting a troop of children into the dinlist, with the addition of hanging pin-cushions at ing room during the dessert. each side of the large looking-glass which stood Having settled ourselves in the drawing-room, on the mantel-piece. Attached to each sleeping some of the party sat down to embroidery, and apartment was a handsome dressing-room, leading others to reading, the table being covered with to another small apartment designed for a wait-newspapers just arrived from Paris; whilst we ing-maid, from which there is an exit to the cor-visited by invitation the apartments of the marridor. Each visitor therefore may be said to have chioness, which, as before observed, occupy all a cluster of two or three private apartments. The the ground-floor of the left wing. We entered other parts of the mansion are on the same princely her library from a door in the drawing-room leadscale. It was built in the reign of Louis XIII., ing into it, and were much pleased to find such a and consists of a centre two stories high, with a choice collection of French translations of English wing at each side of the same height. Staircases works, as madame cannot read them in the origlead to the long corridors, which run from one inal. Sir Walter Scott's works occupied a large end of the chateau to the other, and from which space. We were much amused, on opening one all the bedrooms are entered. The lower corridor of his novels, by seeing an attempt at a translation is hung with family portraits-knights and belles of Edie Ochiltree's Scotch; and a very queer atof "high degree"-and is lighted by the windows tempt it was. In a recess stood a handsome bedwhich form part of the façade. The lower floor stead, draped with pale blue gros de Naples, covof one of the wings contains the suite of rooms ered by the most beautiful and delicate lace-work appropriated to the marchioness, the other those of that species called application. The coverlet of the marquis, and the entire upper part of each is occupied by the children, their servants, and English governesses. The drawing, billiard, and dining-rooms, are noble apartments, and, with antechambers, run the entire length and breadth of the chateau. In one of the drawing-rooms is placed a marble bust of the Duke de Bourdeaux, in a most conspicuous position. It is valuable both as a likeness, and as a fine work of art. Luxury and comfort are singularly combined in this charming room, from which the grounds can be entered by means of a flight of steps.

and toilet-cover were likewise of the same material; the former was flounced round in a corresponding pattern. All these elegant specimens of needlecraft have been the result of the marchioness' own industry. In the middle of a large bow-window stood the toilet-table, covered by a profusion of silver, gold, china, Venice glass, and colored stone dressing utensils. Near the fireplace is hung a rosary, in a glass-case, which was pointed out to us with pride and veneration, as it is believed to contain a piece of the true cross. The beads are formed from precious stones. This interesting object was presented to an ancestor of the marchioness by the celebrated Père Joseph, the friend and agent of Richelieu.

The ladies had the kindness again to call at our door, to convey us down stairs as soon as the bell rang for general breakfast. We found all the family assembled in the drawing-room. Some of The gentlemen and the marchioness having prothe gentlemen had been walking in the grounds, posed a walk through the grounds, in order to others in the village, and the intellectual comte show them to us, we readily assented, and were had been giving his accustomed German lessons greatly pleased with the excursion. The walks to his daughters. We were all conducted in the were diversified, and so well laid out, that from same order to the dining-room as we had been the different points of the higher grounds we had preceding evening. We found the beautiful pol- charming prospects of the country around, inished table covered by a delicious melange of cluding the old village and church of Linière. poultry, joints of roasted meat, bread, cakes, po- Finally, we visited the orangerie and hothouses, tatoes in divers forms, and most recherché made and were then conducted by the inarchioness to dishes. Tea, coffee, and chocolate were poured her favorite spot, laid out to resemble, and called out from silver pots by servants at each person's an English garden. She showed us a small pardesire, the cups and saucers alone being placed on terre of pretty Scotch roses, which had been sent the table. Eggs, poached and dressed in oil, we her as a present from the venerable Lord Lynefound to be delicious: they were, however, served doch, a brother in arms of the marquis. We had singly in small earthenware pipkins with handles, scarcely returned to the house, when we were which certainly appeared rather incongruous told to prepare for a drive, as they wished us to amongst such a brilliant display of plate. Sweet-see some of the neighboring chateaux. When meats of the rarest and most curious description, we were ready, three handsome equipages drove strawberries, cherries, and various fruits, some of up-a caleche, Brougham, and the Comte de Beauthem iced, were also present; likewise wines and lieu's favorite, each drawn by a pair of fine Engliqueurs-the whole reminding me of the far-lish horses. We visited two chateaux. One of famed breakfasts of the Scotch. The absence of these contained a rare collection of paintings by a table-cloth, however, gave a foreign air to the the old masters, hung in a gallery evidently copied repast. Finger-glasses, as at dinner, was the sig- from the Louvre. The luxury of everything there nal for rising from table, when we were again was regal. Precious bronzes and antique marble marshalled to the drawing room, where all the busts were distributed through the apartments.

The dining room was worthy of Lucullus. The undue liberties with another. I observed that the house had belonged to one of the ancient noblesse, two sons-in-law of the marchioness always adwhose widow, after his decapitation, had been dressed her as maman, or ma chère maman. One obliged to sell it for a trifle to a citizen. This tolerably obvious reason for this clubbing together man had a daughter in whom all his wealth cen- of families is narrowness of fortune. It will also tred; she married a young member of the old be recollected that, by the new law of inheritance aristocracy, and is now a widow with two chil- in France, properties are divided equally among dren. Some years back, her husband was sent as the children, and all seem to maintain an equal ambassador to England by Louis XVIII. We hold on the paternal feelings. While acknowlwere particularly struck by the sofas with awnings edging that this practice of equal division seems dispersed through the grounds, and by an octagon the most reasonable and just, I have, after all, room, some of the windows of which opened upon doubts of its general efficacy. It no doubt appears the lawn; they had also awnings over them, and scandalous, that, by our law of primogeniture, at each side of the steps flowers in vases. A while the elder son gets all, the younger sons get beautiful ornamented cottage in the grounds was nothing; yet it causes universal exertion, and is most tastefully furnished, and would make a probably best for the nation at large. Few things charming summer abode. The riding house and are more striking to a stranger in France than the some of the stables are built with the stones which hosts of genteel idlers everywhere-men waiting once formed a part of the celebrated convent, the for slices of their fathers' fortune; and it would "Port Royal, "where the virtuous Arnaulds flour- not, I think, improve society in England to fill it ished so long, both as reformers and as the great with such a class of persons. I am, however, no supporters of Jansenism. At the other chateau politician, and speak diffidently on a question of the garden pleased us most. The noble duke who such moment. is the proprietor seldom visits it; therefore it presented a very different appearance from the one we had just quitted. On our return we entered a very ancient church, with most exquisitely painted windows. Madame de Beaulieu was much pleased at her eldest daughter, nine years old, being able to recognize and narrate the different Scripture histories set forth thereon. As soon as we arrived within sight of the great altar, all our friends, gentlemen as well as ladies, dropped upon their knees, and appeared for some minutes to be lost in devotion. After a delightful drive, we returned to Linière just in time to dress for dinner.

As I have now detailed our proceedings for one day, it would be only a vain repetition to continue to do so, as nearly every hour was spent much in the same manner, with some exceptions; as, for instance, when the day was wet, we each took our work and had some interesting conversation. The marchioness was engaged upon the finest piece of needlework we ever saw, which is intended as a cover for the great altar in her own church at Linière. Every day, after our first breakfast, we read until the general one, always over night providing ourselves with the books which we desired to peruse. During a morning excursion we visited the ruins of one of the strongholds of the bold Jean de Montford, Duke of Brittany, celebrated in one of the ruthless wars of the fourteenth century.

During our stay we had many animated discussions relative to the difference both in manners and customs of our respective countries; but they all ended, as such conversations generally do, by leaving each individual wedded to the opinion expressed at first. One part of French chateau life had for some years puzzled us, but we think we understand it now; I allude to the harmonious manner in which many branches of one family reside under the same roof. The Marquis de Tourville, one day, when speaking on this subject, said he rejoiced to entertain us at his chateau, that we might witness the patriarchal manner in which he lived with his daughters and their husbands and children, among whom never a jar occurred. I am inclined to ascribe this felicity to the strict etiquette and habitual politeness of the French. Although all relations, and living together in one house, each branch keeps itself to itself, and no one takes

At the chateau, a German gentleman had been invited to meet us, and to remain for some days, as he had the reputation of speaking English fluently. When this worthy man, however, was placed next one of our party at dinner, not a word could he muster in our language; and he appeared to discover for the first time that reading and speaking a foreign tongue are two separate things. He, however, conversed fluently in French; and being a very well informed man, we considered him a great addition to our little society. He bore the jokes passed upon his failure of English with much good humor. The perfect harmony which prevailed in this family was delightful to witness. The venerable marquis was considered by the children as common property during the hour they remained in the drawing-room after dinner. One beautiful urchin climbed his knee; a little girl seated herself on the other; one pulled his hair; another mounted on his back in fact, he resembled Gulliver when the Lilliputians covered him all over. The parents were likewise besieged; but the instant the time for going to bed arrived, there was no hankering, no shuffling, to gain half an hour. Strict obedience was demanded, and, I must say, cheerfully paid. The Comtesse de Beaulieu's two eldest daughters played the piano remarkably well. The second, who is only eight years old, is quite a musical genius. Both conduct themselves like women. They asked us such intelligent questions relative to our country, which they are most anxious to see, that it was a pleasure to answer them. They both speak and write our language correctly. The young vicomtesse has two lovely little boys who were beginning to lisp English; and from what I saw and heard here and elsewhere, I should imagine the time is not far distant when every one among the higher classes in France will be able to speak English as well as ourselves. The constant intercourse with England and America is forcing on this result.

I am now brought to the conclusion of my visit. The day of our departure from this charming mansion arrived, and we were obliged to bid adieu to our friends, whom we quitted with much regret, mingled with gratitude, for the very kind and hospitable manner in which we had been treated during our stay in the chateau.