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The red flame in the west burns into our solemn passing of the glass ! High up in eyes, we can see no more.
your awful solitudes, you can surely hear us; and we will tell you what you must call
across the plains, for they are all silent now, “We were startled by this wild roaring in as silent as the white skulls lying in the sand. our ears, as if the world were falling, and we Vanderdecken, for the sake of Heavenare in a mystical cavern ; and the whirling if that has power to conjure you-call to our gray cataracts threaten to tear us from the listening friends, and we will pledge you in narrow foothold. Our eyes are blinded, our a glass to-night, and you and your ghastly throats are choked, our fingers still clutch at crew will nod your heads in ominous laughthe dripping rocks ; and then all at once we ter—" see your shining and smiling face—you giant black demon-you magnificent Sambo-you But what is this that we hear, suddenly huge child of the nether world of waters ! shaking the pulses of the night with its tenWe KENT GO NO FORDER DEN DAWT? Is der sound? O friends far away! do you that what you say? We shout to you through know that our English bells are beginning to this infernal din that we can—we can-we ring in the Christmas time? If you cannot can! We elude your dusky fingers, We hear our faint voice across the wild Atlantic send you a mocking farewell. Let the waters and the silent plains, surely you can hear the come crashing down ; for we have dived, sounds you knew so well in the by-gone and drifted-and come up into the white days! Over the crisp snow, and by the sunlight again !
side of the black trees and hedges, we hurry
homeward. We sit in a solitary room, and “ And now there is no sound at all. We still we hear outside the faint tolling of the cannot even hear Bell's voice; for she is bells. The hour is near, and it is no dire standing silent in front of the Chief's grave ; spirit that we expect, but the gentle soul of and she is wondering whether his ghost is a mother coming with a message to her still lingering here, looking for the ships of sleeping children, and stopping for a moment the white man going up and down the great in passing to look on her friends of old. river. For our part, we can see none at all. And she will take our message back, we The broad valley is deserted; the Missouri know, and tell that other young wife out shows no sign of life ; on the wide plains there that we are glad to hear that her heart around us we find only the red-bird and the is at peace at last. · But what will the invisgrasshopper. Farewell, White Cow; if your ible messenger take back for herself? A last wish is not gratified, at least the silence look at her children : who knows? of the prairie is reserved to you, and no alien A second to twelve. Shall we give a wild plough crosses the solitude of your grave. scream, then, as the ghost enters ? for the You are
an amiable ghost, we think ; we silence is awful. Ah, no! whether you are would shake hands with you, and give you a here or not, our good Bell, our hearts go friendly “How?' but the sunlight is in our forth towards you, and we welcome you ; eyes, and we cannot see you, just as you can and we are glad that, even in this silent not make out the ships on that long line of fashion, we can bring in the Christmas-time river. May you have everlasting tobacco in together. But is the gentle spirit here-or the world of dreams.
has it passed? A stone's throw from our
house is another house“; and in it there is a “ You infamous Hendrich Hudson, will room dimly lit; and in the room are two not you carry our message now-for our sleeping children. If the beautiful mother voices cannot reach across the desert plains ? has been here with us amidst the faint tollAwaken, you cowled heads, and come forth ing of these Christmas bells, you may be into the starlight; for the Christmas bells | sure she only smiled upon us in passing, and have not rung yet ; and there is time for a that she is now in that silent room.
THROUGH THE PHOSPHATE COUNTRY TO THE DESERT.
T is proposed in the present paper to take given by the coureurs de bois and voyageurs,
the reader on a short excursion to a sec- note some natural characteristic or some intion of Canada of which very few persons cident connected with the locality. The Mer outside of the political capital, and not many Bleu has been so called on account of the even there, can have any very accurate know- peculiar pebbly bottom, which gives a pale ledge. The district to which I refer stretches opaque blue tint to the waters of this large to the north of the Ottawa River and is and picturesque lake. The river of the Caswatered by two of its most picturesque tribu- tor Blanc, and the lake of the Poisson Blanc taries, the Gatineau and Du Lièvre. Looking bear testimony to the existence of the white at the very excellent map published by the beaver and white fish at one time or other. Government of Quebec,or indeed at any large The townships of Hincks, Dorion, Sicotte, map of Canada conveniently at hand, we find and Alleyn recall the old political conflicts that these rivers take their rise some hun- of Capada, while Lytton, Wakefield, and dreds of miles from the City of Ottawa, in a Kensington are among the mementoes of rugged region of rocks and hills, where the prominent men and places in the motherIndian and trapper are the only inhabitants. country. Bouchette reminds us of one of The whole country is intersected in a marvel- the earliest surveyors, to whom we owe the lous manner by rivers and lakes, which con- ablest topographical description ever pubnect with the two rivers in question, and lished of Lower Canada. The River du afford unrivalled facilities to the lumbermen, Lièvre is named from the hares which were who, for some forty years, have been rob- once remarkably common on its banks, and bing the hills and valleys of the magnificent made to stand sponsors at the christening, pine forests that have hitherto constituted by the ready-witted and practical voyageurs. the chief wealth of that region. At this time The Gatineau is evidently of old French especially, a sketch of some of the natural origin, and was first given to a Seigniory of characteristics of the country will be proba- the County of St. Maurice, where a concesbly interesting to many persons, since very sion was made by Marquis de la Jonquière recent discoveries have proved the existence and Francis Bigot—the former Governor, of valuable economic minerals, and the pros and the latter, the notorious Intendant of the pect now is that capital will be directed to last days of the French régime-to Marie this comparatively unknown section, and give Josephe Gatineau Duplessis. The Désertan unexpected importance to the vast masses the accent must be placed on the first syllaof Laurentian rocks that cover so many thou- ble--is applied, as we shall presently show, sands of square miles of the region watered to a wilderness region. For the same reaby the Ottawa and its tributary rivers. son, the French pioneers of Acadia named
The names of the townships, rivers, and a picturesque island, off the coast of Maine, lakes of the Gatineau country illustrate, as now a famous resort of summer tourists. “I elsewhere in Canada, different epochs and have called it,” says Champlain,“ the Isle of events in the history of the Dominion. The Monts Déserts, impressed was he Pickanock, and Kazabazoua Rivers, and the with the sight of the craggy sunimits which Papenegeang and Kakebonga Lakes are rise above the waves on the Atlantic coast. Algonquin names that have come down to us from the Indian tribes who have inhabited " There, gloomily against the sky, that section from time immemorial. But
The Dark Isles rear their summits high ;
And Desert Rock, abrupt and bare, French names predominate here just as they
Lifts its grey turrets in the air.” do in the Province of Quebec generally, and illustrate the spirit of adventure that has The history of this region only goes back for carried away at all times so many French some thirty years. Champlain refers to it Canadians into the wilderness either to trap incidentally in his account of his voyages up furs or level the forest. The names of all the Ottawa, and tells us that the Algonquin the lakes and rivers, like those generally tribes not unfrequently ascended the Gatineau
for a long distance, until they were able at which the water rushes wildly, or widens into last, by means of the lakes, streams; and por- a placid lake encircled by hills. The country tages, to reach the St. Maurice, whence they is well settled by a thrifty, industrious class descended to the St. Lawrence, at the point of small farmers, who have followed in the where now sleeps the quiet old city of Three wake of the lumberman. The slopes of the Rivers; and this very circuitous route be hills are for some fifty miles well cultivated, came generally a necessity when the indians and present a very charming contrast with learned that their hereditary foes, the Iro- the rugged pine-clad summits, below which quois, were lying in ambush for them on the lie the farms. At different places, close by banks of the Lower Ottawa. It does not the river side, are rich alluvial tracts whcre appear
that any attempt was made to colo. , the principal lumbering firms have made fine nize the Gatineau Valley until many years farms, and built comfortable houses and after the settlement of Hull, opposite Ottawa, stores, where they keep supplies for the use by Philemon Wright, the pioneer of this of the shanties. The soil of the mountain part of Canada.* When Mr. McTaggart, slopes is naturally rich, and yields bountione of the Engineers who explored the route fully when cleared of its surface stone, while for the Rideau Canal, wrote his notes on even in the most rocky parts there is abunCanada, he had no idea of the value of this dant herbage and water for cattle, especially region. It was his opinion--one showing for sheep. The whole country for some fifty the uses to which Englishmen of those days or sixty miles to the north of the Ottawa is, in would put the colonies--that “the vale of fact, admirably adapted for grazing, and any the Gatineau would make a most favourable man with a little capital, who could buy out place for convicts."
“They could be con- several farms, could probably carry on stockveyed to the vale,” he goes on to say, "at raising and sheep-rearing with profit despite about a quarter of the expense that they are the long winters. now to New Holland. As the local situa- Several villages are situated alongside the tion there is excellent, with regard to Upper river or its small tributary streams. The and Lower Canada, it might become a place principal is the Péche, where there are of great importance and utility to the mother- several inns, comfortable in their way, two country, and a receptacle for villains.” Hap- 1 churches, and some small factories, besides pily Mr. McTaggart's suggestion was not a handsome brick store, owned by a wealthy adopted, or we might now have a Gatineau lumberman. The situation is exceedingly aristocracy akin to the “old families” of New i romantic, on the side of a broad stretch of South Wales. It has been left to the lum- the river, here encircled by an amphitheatre berman to open up a valuable section of of gently undulating hills. The Pickanock is country within a little over a quarter of a another village of considerable importance, century. When Bouchette published his for it is the headquarters of a large lumber Topographical Description of Canada, in business, and the centre of a fine farming 1832, he showed that he was ignorant of the district. But the villages, like all places of capabilities of the Gatineau for lumbering sudden growth in mining or lumbering disand settlement. But since several wealthy ! tricts, are not in themselves beautiful--- none and enterprising firms have bought up the have the neatness of a New England village, most valuable limits throughout a splendid but are suggestive of slabs and stumps and pine country, the Gatineau, despite its swift general untidiness ; but this is not remarkcurrent and numerous rapids, has been found able when we find that the needs of the preone of the most desirable rivers of the Ot / sent must first be considered, and that green tawa region for the driving of timber. blinds, white paint, pretty gardens, and shade
The drive up the Gatineau takes you trees in front of every home, are the outcome through a country remarkable for its pictur- of an older, more settled state of things. esque scenery. The road, for some seventy The natural beauty of thecountry soon makes miles, rarely ever leaves the banks of the one forget the inevitable slovenliness of the river, which now narrows to a gorge through pioneer. As far as the eye can reach, you
may follow a seemingly endless range of * The Ottawa Valley : Its history and resources.
hills which rise, one beyond the other, in C. M. January, 1875.' The present article may be graceful succession, until they are lost in the considered a supplement to that paper.
purple of the distance. You drive through an avenue of forest shade, which now and era-great earthquakes convulsed the whole then opens just enough to enable you to northern part of this continent, and formedcatch a glimpse of the glistening waters of the hills and valleys which are now the charthe rapid river, tumbling ever and anon over acteristic feature of this region. Perhaps the impeding rocks. Here is a brook burst- then it was that this enormous metamorphic ing from under some ledge that is overhung rock was tossed from the heart of the earth with gnarled birches or maples, and illumi- upon the hills where it has rested for unnated with nodding crimson columbines--then known ages. Or, as it is more generally beyawning away between its green banks, with lieved, at an equally remote period enormous a new song for every stone that trips its flow. glaciers held this region in an icy embrace, The rapids you see at frequent intervals are and in their onward, irresistible march, bore beautiful miniatures of the grander scenes this rock from some mountain of the north, that charm the eye on the Ottawa and St. and left it a monument of their reign on the Lawrence. None of the hills are mountains everlasting hills." All through the Ottawa in the real sense of the word, rarely rising country we find similar boulders scattered more than eight or nine hundred feet above indiscriminately in the valleys and on the Ottawa ; but they are frequently beautifully highest hills; and scientific observers for the wooded and graceful in their lines.
most part agree that they are the relics of If we wander only a few paces from the road, the glacial drift. But none of the boulders. we shall probably come to a sequestered lake, to be seen elsewhere can surpass in size this where the foliage is always green on the trees magnificent specimen on the Gatineau. For that skirt its banks and often dip into the ages past it has rested among the Laurentian water. A mountain lake like this is always hills, and there it will likely remain for ages beautiful, but still, some think there is a lone to come, until it is disturbed by some great liness about it which is at times depressing. convulsion of nature's secret forces. About From the summit of a mountain you can see such a rock there is a certain solemnity which a vast expanse of country, and your view is awes one of a contemplative turn of mind. only bounded by the horizon. Standing on There it stands, a cold, impassive observer the shore of the sea, your thoughts are not of all the changes of time since the world confined within the narrow range of your assumed its present organic form. From gaze, but every sail that floats like a gull on the day it left its primeval home, it has seen the wave, and every wreath of smoke that the surrounding glaciers slowly melt away curls into the heavens, are so many connect beneath some powerful atmospheric influening links with countries far beyond. The ces, and then the great pine forests gradually river, too, may carry you in imagination to start from the freed earth, and cover the the cities and towns, and unite you with the rocks of the primeval age. These forests, world that frets and throbs many miles away. too, it sees disappearing in a day as it were, But a lake, concealed among the hills, limits but still it looks serenely on from its ancient your view to its banks, and can never have seat, like the moon and stars above its grey for many the same charm as the illimitable face, an unmoved silent witness of the myssea, or the flowing river, which represent, as tery of countless dawns. it were, the infinite.
Summer and winter equally afford attracGray boulders of every size and form seem tions to those who wish to see this region in to have been tossed by some giant arm in a its varied aspect. The fisherman will, of fit of rage, and now lie piled on each other course, visit it in the spring, when the nuin a bewildering chaotic mass. Some dis- merous lakes that cover the country are teemtance up the river, on the summit of a hill, ing with fine fish. It is always easy to find close to the road, there is lying the most guides and canoes at the most accessible reenormous boulder that I have ever seen, even sorts, and you may be sure to have all the in this region, so famous for its rocks. It is sport you wish. Trout, bass, and pickerel as large, perhaps, as St. James's Cathedral in are the principal fish caught in their season. Toronto, and it is perplexing to think how so Trout from six to twelve pound are not ununwieldy a mass ever found a resting place frequently taken by those adventurous sportson the hills of the Gatineau. Some believe men who do not hesitate to seek " fresh that at some time or other, in a now forgot- woods and pastures new
in the remotest ten past-in a mysterious, silent geological parts of the wilderness. A favourite starting place is Farrel's, a well-kept inn, pictur- enormous size, will be seen on the firm ice, esquely situated amid the hills, within sight awaiting the thaws of spring. The whir of of the rapid river.
the axe and the cry of the teamsters are reBut it is in the winter you can alone form echoed through the long avenues of pines, an accurate idea of the vastness of the lum- which, ever and anon, sough and tremble bering trade of this section. The Hamilton as the winds pass by and embrace their Brothers, Gilmour & Co., Edwards & Co., bushy tops. Here indeed we may say with and some smaller firms work the greater part the greatest of American poets : of the country for many thousands of square miles on the Eagle, Grand Lac, Kazabazoua, This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines an i Blue Sea, Kakebonga, Otter Lake, and other the hemlocks, streams and lakes which afford facilities to Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indis
tinct in the twilight, reach the main river. For several winters Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad and propast the writer,through the kindness of one of phetic. the most genial, hospitable managers of one of these large firms, has had unusual op. But the practical lumberman cares little for portunities for travelling over a large tract primeval beauty. He not unfrequently deof country which, otherwise, he could never tects signs of decay in what the inexperhave visited. The number and size of the ienced eye would believe to be a remarkably lakes must particularly impress the mind of fine specimen of the pine. At a glance he the visitor, who will see at once how admir- can tell you if it is sound to the core,or defecably nature adapts herself to the require tive in any respect. Then, if his opinion is ments of man. Without our cold, snowy favourable, the axe is swung in an instant climate, without this network of lakes and at its base, and in a few moments the noble rivers, this section would be comparatively tree begins to quiver, and falls gently among inaccessible.
The splendid pine forests the brush, whilst its executioner stands carewould probably be still untouched, and si- lessly by leaning on his axe, knowing to lence would reign unbroken in a wilderness a certainty the exact spot where it must of shade. But thanks to the wise provis- rest. ions of nature, many millions of dollars Game is not very common now throughworth of timber has, in the course of time, out the Gatineau Vale, compared with what been brought from the mountains and plains, it was some years ago, before the lumberand still much more will come in the future, men obtained such complete control of the if fire does not sweep the whole country and country. But still in certain localities the destroy what valuable timber remains. No sportsman can find enough to keep him one, unless he travels over the lumber region busy. Deer are frequently met in secluded of the Ottawa and its tributary rivers, can places among the hills, and fur-bearing aniform any accurate conception of the terrible mals, including the beaver, but principally havoc that fires, originating for the most foxes, mink, and muskrat, are trapped by the part from sheer negligence, have caused in settlers. Bears constantly pay visits to the the forests. Between the Six Portages, and farms. I know a gentleman-farmer who on the way to the Blue Sea, the writer saw found that a piece of buckwheat was mysthousands of gaunt, stripped trunks, all teriously disappearing, and threw the blame showing by their girth and height the great on a black cow which he saw once from a disvalue of the timber that has been lost in tance, and supposed had broken down the this way. Driving further into the interior fence somewhere and strolled in, as such over the Grand Lac or the Otter Bleu, we animals are fond of doing. One morning, reach a country where there is no settlement, however, he saw a large black bear quietly and the evidences of fire disappear entirely. nibbling away at the grain. He chased the Here the visitor will find himself at last in a animal, but only wounded him at that time, wilderness of pines. Roads branch off in and it was not till a week later that he was different directions from the log shanties, killed, a short distance from his favourite two or three of which are to be found on haunts. About a fortnight later the same every“ limit,” according to the extent of person went after his cows to a pasture bethe operations and the value of the timber hind his barns, and here, to his amazement, in the vicinity. Long rows of logs, some of he came upon a still larger bear, enjoying a