higher, in portable chairs; some few are led hill and see a famous temple, and get the benon horses. Pack-horses come slowly wind- efit of the outlook from the elevation. The ing round a turn. A common plodder, with ascent to the temple is nearly opposite to nothing but his trusty staff, is now the only the tea-house. Temples are built, when it is man we meet; and now a gentleman in a possible, on elevations overlooking the sea norimon (a kind of litter) and his troop of Their situations are the finest in their respecattendants fill up the road-way. Bettoes, tive neighborhoods. They are reached by a with their loads easily balanced on their series of terraces, on which are disposed with shoulders, go lightly along, almost at a trot. some attention to symmetry, lesser temples, Religious mendicants beg in alms, while shrines, monuments of bronze or stone, and they give to you in return a prayer for a safe ⠀ large tanks of water, many of them magnifijourney, mumbling it over their beads. cent pieces of work in bronze. A structure Blind men, also a religious fraternity, come like the frame of a gate, with two cross along blowing each a whistle to remind beams at the top, is formed at regular interthose on the road, to remember to be charita- vals arching the direct approaches. Similar ble. And there are objects of charity not on ones are found on the road, a long way off the road, but hard by-hermits in trees, and from the precincts of any temple or sacred in cells in the rocks. place, but, if followed up, they would lead to And so we journey on, seeing all these the sanctuary, be it temple, image, shrine or things, quickly passing some and less quick-what not. They seem to say, "this is the ly others, and draw bridle at a tea-house in the village of Fusiama, about eight miles from Yokohama, and two from Katasi, where we intend to lie all night. The idea is to refresh ourselves and our horses, and thus to let them cool off for the end of this day's journey and not to arrive heated. We did not start till late in the afternoon; and more than that, we did not propose to make long journeys, but to occupy most of the time in rambling about the interesting places, expending our strength in this way rather than wearying ourselves by long stages on horseback. Alighted at the tea-house, we sat down on the raised floor at the door-way, and called for tea, which was immediately brought, as well as a fire-box containing ignited charcoal to light our cigars. While we refreshed ourselves, the horses were walked up and down, much to the amusement of the villagers, a large crowd of whom were collected to witness the outlandish performance. Their faces all wore a look of pleased curiosity; but there was nothing annoying in that, on the contrary, the incident rather added to our entertainment. To one or two we gave a drink of brandy from our flasks, and they found it marvelously good "sake." After a little, we mounted and went on to Katasi at a moderate pace. Here we stop-marvelously like what has been more than ped at another tea-house, where we were to stay all night. There being still something left of the daylight, the Englishman proposed that we should clamber to the top of a

way, walk ye in it." You cannot help giving the Japanese credit for a pervading religious sentiment that is interwoven through all the operations of life, notwithstanding that you are aware of the debasing influences of their form of worship. This sentiment is none the less impressive that it is mysterious and inexplicable. It obtrudes itself on various occasions, and though there may be in it more of the force of habit than sense or moral obligation—as it certainly is not associated with a consistent mode of life— nevertheless it is there, and is interesting as affecting the destiny of a large portion of humanity; and in a certain way, you feel that it awakens a kind of concern in your own mind. Like the gate-frames I have spoken of, the various symbols of this bygone religion seem to be trying to instruct you, but in a language so long of the past, that its meaning is very vague, or entirely misinterpreted. Overlaid by a gradual accumulation of false and materialistic constructions, its original doctrine is hidden from our sight and forgotten-a myth in place of authentic revelation and a clear spiritual understanding of it, which I can't help thinking was once the fact. What has happened to original Buddhism is so

threatened to Christianity, that you stand before the relics of it, with trembling perplexity as to what may be the destiny of the latter, and with anxious inquiries, which you

impatiently make, but which you know can- | symbols of their worship and the images of

their gods, or the imaged attributes of their god, a grewsoine feeling stole over me. I felt as though the place were haunted :

"A sense of mystery the spirit daunted, And said as plain as whisper in the ear, The place is haunted," Haunted I know not of what, whether by the pure spirit of the earlier faith seeking to reveal itself, or by usurping demons who have appropriated the sanctuary and its worship. At any rate, a spirit shrouded in gloom communed with me.

opportunity of turning a penny, and they were glad enough to be along on that account, still, as it was to holy places, they made a merit of it, and it was droll and curious to see how they seemed to satisfy their claims of conscience, while they made a jolly lark of it. They entered chatting and laughing, and broke in upon my reflections very abruptly. Nearly every one threw a few “cash” into a huge box standing just inside the door. Some muttered a prayer, raising the hands as in supplication with the palms together, while others made purchase of a little table of "josh pidgins," as the Englishman called them, and disturbed the quiet of the place while they did so; or rather, I should say, startled it.

not be answered, as to what was really the origin of the other. There is great similarity in all Buddhist temples, and when I have described this, I shall have no occasion to be particular about others. I have forgotten how many terraces must be mounted before the temple is reached, but some three or four. I ought to remember, for the labored ascent was particularly impressed upon me. I had hardly a leg to stand on when I reached the top. The temple is not a large one. It is a quadrangular edifice of wood, and may be a perfect square. It has While we were here we were joined by the appearance of it. A high roof, sloping our bettoes and attendants. Although the on all sides, and only saved from being py-journey we were making afforded them the ramidal in form by a short ridge at the top, running parallel to the front, projects far over the body of the building, and is supported on pillars through the medium of beams, which cross and overlap each other, and thus form heavy eaves, which are the chief peculiarity in the construction. The lines of the roof as they approach the edges curve outward, and there is a massive appearance in the border where they terminate. In the body of the building the spaces between the pillars, though several of them are left open at times and occasions, are sometimes closed in with lattice-work, sometimes with what I would call shutters. There is ornamental work to be seen in the eaves, and parts of the building seem to have been stained with blue and red, and bits of defaced gilding appear here and there. Within are pillars similar to those in the sides of the building, and ranged parallel to them at regular intervals, supporting the same larger beams that rest on the exterior pillars. These larger beams are richly carved, and there is other ornamentation which it would take too long to describe particalarly. The interior, excepting spaces corresponding to the aisles of a church and a vacant strip connecting them just inside of the door, is filled with all sorts of sacred furniture, which resembles most strikingly in its general arrangement, forms and uses, that seen in any old Romish church. Priests are there too, with strings of beads in their hands, kneeling before the altar; they are repeating prayers in a tongue which neither they nor the people understand. As I witnessed their devotions and saw about me the

There is an abiding quiet about this temple that even unseemly noise and mirth cannot greatly disturb. Between it and nature there seems to be a uniting link, and the pervading peacefulness of the one is imparted to the other. The whispering of the wind among the trees is faintly repeated in the temple. Birds fly in and out, and build their nests in nooks and corners, and so far from being disturbed are regarded with religious reverence. It is an act of piety to throw a few grains of corn to these creatures. At some of the temples, not at this, white horses (albinos) are stabled near the entrance, for the use of the god to whom the temple is dedicated. To give a trifle of food to these is also a pious act.

Soon after the bettoes and their party came into the temple, we moved away. We made a further ascent of the hill on which the temple is situated, and came to the top just

the first class. There is no end of pious tradition concerning it, of which but a small portion has ever come to the understanding of foreigners. The geography says that an island is land entirely surrounded by water. This, then, is only occasionally an island, for it is only surrounded by water at high

on the verge of a precipice overlooking a vast extent of fertile flat, and bounded by the sea. Fusi-no-gama (the peerless mountain) rose magnificently in the distance. It is another one among the many of the fine views to be seen in this part of Japan. We gazed till dusk began to fall, and then returned to descend. The shadows of the even-tide; so, with the exception of a little stream ing had already thrown themselves across the temple terraces, and an eerie obscurity was settling on surrounding objects, and imparting a character, indistinct and ghostly, as we continued our descent down successive flights of steps and passed the outer portal.

Returned to the tea-house, we found preparations making for our evening meal, and while they were still going on, we occupied our time in bathing, and afterwards arrayed ourselves in pajjammas most comfortably. After partaking of our repast, we threw ourselves down on the matting a la japonaise, or as nearly so as the inflexibility of our limbs would permit. The Japanese have a suppleness of the joint bred into them, which allows them to take, with ease, positions that would give us outlanders intolerable pain. So not being able to sit quite in their fashion, we made a compromise by lolling against the partitions. In this position we spent an hour talking over the events of the day, and in exchanging our opinions in regard to what we had seen, and then turned in on our own respective shake-downs, which are the nearest approach to beds of which the Japanese have any use.

which we crossed in a scow, we had the hard beach under us all the way, for we were lucky enough to arrive at the time when the tide was out. Thus far I have been quite minute, to give the reader a suitable impression at starting; but it is not possible to indulge in descriptions of even a small number of scenes I witnessed, nor yet to give an unbroken narrative in this space of the events of the journey. 1 make short work then of the island. It is famous as possessing a great many natural attractions, as well as those imparted to it by art in the service of superstition. The ascent on the side nearest the main land is rapid, but not abrupt; while to the sea the island presents a bold and rugged iront. It is covered with verdure as with a rich mantle, and fine old trees are upon it, and pleasant winding paths that lead to the temple precincts, and holy wells, and shrines, and praying wheels. By the way, the service of the praying wheel is a jolly religious observance. Religion and amusement are inseparable in the Japanese mind; and for aught I know, in that of all Asiatics. The wheel I have in remembrance turns on a vertical axis. It is in fact a long barrel. From the centre, arms radiate about a foot and a half from the ground, and the prayerful set the machine a-going by means of these, and when it is at speed, leap on them and ride. It is like a whirligig at a show, and creates about the same amount of merriment. All along the avenue leading to the places of interest are booths displaying for sale various articles of shell-work, curious fish, algæ, sponges of inferior quality, etc., etc., souvenirs of the place and specimens of its productions. Our bettoes and attendants loaded themselves with these. Their taste ran in the direction of shell flow

We rose early the next morning, much refreshed. I was awakened by the ringing of the temple bell, which announced to the faithful the rising of another sun, and the hour for praise and thanksgiving. We obeyed its call, so far as making another visit to the temple is concerned; but the morning light did not present it to my thinking in so favorable an aspect as the softer light of the declining day. I took more notice of particular objects on this occasion, and 1 remarked the beauty and costliness of many in bronze, both within and without the temple; but this visit was, on the whole, less satisfyers, which they stuck in their hair,and “joshing. We did not make it long, but soon returned to the tea-house for breakfast. This over, we started off on foot to go to the island of Enoshima, which is a holy place of

pidgins," which were to be bought at every temple gate or door. We rambled about the island, and rested ourselves between whiles on seats overlooking the sea, under the shade

ue is a shrine, and the statue itself has an altar before it, with pots of lotus flowers upon it-the whole altar and flowers a fine piece of work in bronze. The priest dwells hard by-under the droppings of the sanctuary as it were. He is an old file with no hair on his head, because it has all been shaved off, and no pious unction in his soul, for what reason, I am not able to say. He's a jolly dog, however, and takes the pence, and doesn't bother. We took tea at his house, and he smoked our cigars and drank our brandy. Along came a pilgrim. (Some pilgrims, by the by, wear the scallop shellthis by way of a note.) In perfect good faith he paid his mite, which should have given him, according to my notion, a mouthful of prayers or two inside the statue from the priest officially; but the priest was at his brandy-and-water with us; and so he took the small piece of money, and made a polite sign of the cross, or something like it, at the

of grand old trees, as old as Buddha himself. At last we descended on the seaward face of the island, clambering down the cliff. Here on the water's edge we found the entrance to a sacred cave. Going in, we discovered the usual symbols at the portals of sacred places. We penetrated its dim recesses, and the bettoes burned incense before its bronze deities and serpents; and when we turned to go away, made a scramble so as not to be left hindmost. On reaching the light of day again, we turned our attention to the fisherman who dive for shell-fish on the rocky shore. These were glad enough to show us a specimen of their power, of diving and remaining under water, for a consideration. We amused ourselves in this way till we tired of it, when we retraced our steps, and made our way back as speedily as possible to the tea-house, where we partook of a hearty lunch, and then mounted our horses and set off for Dai Buts. We were now no longer traveling in the Tokai-meek little pilgrim, and motioned him to go do, but on the ordinary bridle-roads, or more justly paths. They are well suited to their purpose, however, and they possess to an eminent degree that merit of bringing the traveler into close contact with surrounding beauties, such as I have noticed in regard to the Tokaido. They lead him through ricebottoms, on the tops of the dykes that separate the fields. They carry him down into shady dells, through brooks in the quiet woods, and whisk him away in the most playful moods through the farmsteads, and close by cottage doors, where he sees women spinning and weaving, and doing all sorts of industrious things. If there is a pretty spot anywhere about, they go right into it; and so we go on to Dai Buts, and arrive in its neighborhood, I don't know at what time in the day precisely. Before we came in sight of the statue (for Dai Buts is a statue) my companions insisted that I should close my eyes and be led "blindings" till at the proper point for reviewing the image favorably. Accordingly the Englishman led me, and Howe ran forward and posted himself in the lap of the great idol. At the right moment I opened my eyes, and surely it was a surprise. There was Howe quite a pigmy, barely able to stretch himself high enough to seat himself on the hands of the god as they lie in his lap. Within the stat

in by himself, which the latter did without remonstrance, and even with many thanks; and the priest came back to his bottle, his face wreathed in smiles, his bald head shining, and his almond eyes twinkling fun. While we were at Dai Buts, one of these Japanese who do not so much relish the foreigner as some others do, came with a retinue to pay his respects. He was a lordling. His attendants were all two-sworded, and their swords are keen-will take a man's head off easily at a clip. He looked proudly at our party-scowled a little, I thought, but, to do him justice, he was a noble fellow in outward seeming, and quite struck my fancy. He is the most like a man of any Japanese I have seen yet. He bowed his head before the god in a respectful way, much as a Frenchman would do the crossings de rigeur at mass. I thought I detected in his manner, quite distinct from that of his attendants, which was more devout, some index of the difference said to exist between the religious idea of the opulent and cultivated and that of the subordinate and lower classes. I thought he seemed to be on very good speaking terms with Dai Buts, and was quite willing to notice him on public occasions; but I felt doubtful whether he would invite him to his house.

We were now at the extreme limit of our

Although this is by far the largest, most important, and decidly most interesting temple we visited, I shall pass it by with only a partial notice.

The great temple, away on the top of the highest terrace, reached laboriously by a long flight of stone steps, has this peculiarity-that it has around it an open quadrangle like a cloister, in which is a multitude of small shrines, containing much-considered relics. Here are his helmet, his sandals, his chop-sticks. Whose helmet, etc., I'm sure I don't know. It matters little; some deified hero's, at all events.

journey, and were to take a turn, and to come back by another way. Paying the priest a trifle, and something more to the poor pilgrim by way of amends for the prayer which we were the innocent cause of his loosing, we mounted and set off in the directions of Kamakura, a "number one" famous place, both religiously and otherwise. Kamakura is said to be an ancient capital, and to a Japanese it has a great historic interest. Its temple, or temples, for there is a group of them, is one of the most renowned in Japan. We came into the town quite abruptly. Darting round a corner suddenly from a decidedly rural neighborhood, we came at once upon the avenue, broad and straight, that leads from the temple to the sea. Far upon our left we could see the high wall of the terrace on which the chief building is situated, and as far to our right as could be seen, the sea washing a sandying on Enoshmia, and a "josh pidgin" I beach.

In the middle of the avenue, running its whole length, is a sacred road divided from the rest by grassy mounds. On this road profane feet are not permitted to tread. It is for religious ceremony, for great" josh expeditions," as my English friend would say, when the portable shrines are on the road, and the images and sacred relics are taken out for a walk.

White horses, spoken of above, are found, and we gave them food, meritoriously, as I understand. I don't know how much immunity and indulgence it gave us, by exact measurement-but a quanity. We know so much as that; what with this, the bird-feed

bought there, I think there is nothing more to be asked. The dispensation was cheap too-not a sixpence worth. Just think of that! Within the sacred limits no snare of fowler, no killing implements are allowed to be used; and as a natural consequence, the streams abound in wild fowl, and the woods in other game, and all so tame that you have no trouble to find them.