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Equevilly is second colonel of the dragoon regiment of Deux-Ponts. His father the marquis of Equevilly was lieutenant-general and captain of the Vautrait, as the office of captain in charge of the tents and royal pavilion at the boar-hunt was vulgarly called.

I paid many other visits, several of which were en blanc, that is to say, that I left my card. The customs in this country have been always extremely fantastic, but we must go with the stream, or be called ignorant country ladies, as Madame de Villeroi angrily called the provincial ladies who visited her at her château. The countess du Nord, whose judgment was very correct, often laughed with me at these little great things, but, however, had the good sense to conform to them. Monarchs themselves must yield to fashion.

CHAPTER XI.

The countess du Nord at Nôtre-Dame-St. Peter's and Nôtre-Dame-Gift from the queen-Iphigénie en Tauride -Mdlle. Laguerre intoxicated-The duke of Bouillon, her lover Couplets - Order of Félicité - Origin of Gluckists and Piccinists-Dancing-M. de Beaumarchais at the countess du Nord's-Jealousy of La HarpeReading of the 'Marriage of Figaro'-Séance at the Academy-M. d'Arnoud-Canes à la Barmécide - The countess du Nord at the Théâtre Français-Verses— The new theatre-The actors-The pretended decay of art-Le Petit Dunquerque-Variétés amusantes.

1782. 26th May.-MADAME BECKENDORF took me to visit the dome of the Invalides, which interested me very much. She was enceinte and very delicate, which, however, did not prevent her from going everywhere, and keeping herself in a perpetual state of motion. We returned together to dine with the countess du Nord. We were very gay during dinner, and talked a great deal; the princess entertained us with an account of the visit she made to Nôtre-Dame during my residence at Versailles. She particularly admired the pictures with which the church is ornamented, of which she

spoke with great judgment and taste, for she is herself very well versed in the art, and draws perfectly well. Their imperial highnesses had expected to make their visit to this edifice quite incognito; but, spite of their precautions, their intention was discovered, and they were received by the canons with due honour. The princess conversed there for some time with the Abbé de Lafaye, who has many relations in Alsace. As we were on the subject of churches, the grand-duchess gave us a detailed description of St. Peter's and of Rome, the capital of the Catholic world. I was very much struck by the parallel she drew between St. Peter's and Nôtre-Dame; two buildings which cannot bear a comparison, except in the point of view in which she considered them.

"At St. Peter's," said she, "one feels overpowered by the beauty, extent, and majesty of the edifice, and hardly dares to address the Supreme Being, in whose honour this gorgeous temple has been raised, so deep is the impression of one's own insignificance, and of the immense distance between the creature and the Creator; but at Nôtre-Dame, built when religion had so much influence over the minds of men, there is a mysterious something which leads the soul to confidence and prayer. One feels a certainty of being heard and pitied, one yields unhesitatingly to the divine influence of love and hope.

These, at least," continued the princess, "were my sensations in the two churches; but, perhaps, you will be surprised when I say that I prefer our Greek churches to either."

Happily for the grand-duchess, she had entirely conquered her regret for the worship of her childhood.

After dinner she showed us a magnificent fan, ornamented with diamonds, which the queen had presented her the day of the dramatic representation at Versailles. There was an eye-glass in the handle, which served her majesty with an excuse for presenting it, which she did with that grace and tact peculiar to herself.

"I know," said she, "that, like me, you are a little shortsighted, an inconvenience which I beg you will allow me to remedy; and may I hope that you will keep this simple ornament in remembrance of me?"

"I will keep it whilst I live," replied the princess; " and never will I forget that to it I owe the happiness of being better able to see your majesty."

6

After dinner I went with General Wurmser to hear Piccini's opera of Iphigénie en Tauride,' and 'Le Devin du Village,' of which both the words and music are by the celebrated Jean Jacques Rousseau. This 'Iphigenia' of Piccini's is the

same subject, and almost the very same words as that of Guimand de la Touche,' set to music by M. Gluck in 1779, and of which the success was immense, the interest of the piece being very well sustained throughout, and the music in the most perfect harmony with the subject. Mdlle. Levasseur played Iphigenia; Larrivée, Orestes; Legros, Pylades; and Moreau, Thoas. It was two years after that Piccini produced his opera on the same theme, to the great indignation of the Gluckists.

At the second representation of Piccini's opera, Mdlle. Laguerre appeared on the stage quite intoxicated; the audience were indignant, they hissed, stamped, hooted, and loudly demanded that she should be sent to Fort l'Evesque, which was done at last, to the great annoyance of her lover, the duke of Bouillon, who has ruined himself for her. He carried his passion for her to the most ridiculous excess, and it was (as everything is in France), made the subject of a popular song. I will transcribe these verses, which are the best I have yet presented to my readers:--

Bouillon est preux et vaillant,

Il aime la guerre ;

A tout autre amusement
Son cœur la préfère;

Ma foi, vive un chambellan
Qui toujours s'en va disant :

Moi j'aime la guerre, ô gué !
Moi j'aime la guerre.

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