CHAPTER V. Arrival at Poona-Its appearance towards evening-British cantonments-Anecdotes of the Peishwa-Subsidiary force-Religious toleration at Poona-Mahratta villages-Bhema river -Arrival at Seroor-Description-Ahmed-Nuggur-Brahman and Mahrattas-Toka-Shakpoor-Village of Elora-Splendid tank-Brahmans and Brahmances bathing. THE roads leading into the city of Poona are in good repair. One route proceeds by the British residency at the Sangam*; the other by a good substantial stone bridge over the Moota river. It was near sunset as I entered Poona; the setting rays of that glorious orb reflecting its beams on the venerable roof of the Parbutti temple, on turreted walls, large white terraced houses, lofty shining spires, and on handsome-looking pagodas, intermingled with Moghul buildings, Hindoo palaces, castles, and gardens, afforded, on a serene evening, an imposing sight to a stranger; while a fine river running in front of the city added an interesting feature to the view. This was not lessened upon entering a crowded city, where the objects were as varied in appearance as the external view * Sangam. It is here that the Moota and Moola rivers form a junction, from thence called Sangam. All great religious ceremonies, whether Mussulman or Hindoo, are performed at this part of the river. had been half a mile off, and consisted of large heavy houses, built of stone, more for defence than comfort; many of them painted with representations of peacocks, figures of Ganesa* and Hanuman. Shops of all descriptions were seen, having open fronts, with the goods exposed on an inclined platform: the streets narrow, and thronged with people; among whom might be discovered the sedate, decently-clad Brahman; the delicate and pretty-featured Hindoo female; the portly, dignified, and handsomely-dressed Mussulman; Arab horsemen completely armed, prancing along upon their fine chargers; Fakeers in a state of nudity; Mahratta foot-soldiers, with sword and buckler; and groups of people from other countries in their various costumes, and with peculiar casts of countenance. In this diversified moving mass we must not forget a few Jews and Portuguese Christians, and occasionally a British Siphauee in his neat undress, on leave of absence for a few hours. This living picture has the addition of state elephants, splendid cavalcades of public officers, decked out with parade and show, accompanied by richly-caparisoned led horses, and * Ganesa, Gunnees, or Gunputty, is a favourite idol with the Mahrattas. I have heard that a former Peishwa had one, the old silver of which sold for 11,000l. The idol captured from the late Peishwa Bajee Row was valued as prize property at 50,000l. sterling; it was of solid gold, and had eyes of diamonds: it was his constant attendant. camels trotting along at a quick pace, with rows of little tinkling bells suspended round their necks. If to all this we add crowded markets, religious processions, and bands of noisy musicians, some idea may be formed of the tumult and bustle of the capital city of the Mahratta empire towards evening. The approach to the British cantonments, nearly two miles beyond the city, is very fine. The country is open, and adorned with a rich variety of cultivation, and some fine large gardens and plantations. I met with a hearty reception from my respected friend (an old shipmate on a voyage to Penang and China, in 1804) Captain Staunton, who afterwards so highly distinguished himself as the hero of Corygaum, in repulsing with his single corps the united efforts of the Peishwa's army. At the hospitable mansion of Captain S. I forgot the fatigues of the day, and rejoiced to be so far on my way to Elora. I purposed making little stay here; just sufficient to procure fresh coolies and cattle, and to relieve my guard of Siphauees. When that arrangement was made, I proposed, with the assistance of a relay of one horse, to proceed directly to our military frontier station at Seroor (Goa Nuddee), distance forty-three miles, and to perform the whole distance in one day. The force stationed at Poona consisted of two native battalions, the remainder of the subsidized force having their head-quarters at Seroor. His highness Sri Mant (Bajee Rao Pundit Purdhaun Behauder), in December, 1802, entered into a treaty to pay the British 300,000l. sterling annually, for the co-operation of one regiment of native cavalry, five battalions of native infantry, a park of artillery, stores, and other materiel of an army, to be paid for in lands assigned over in Guzerat, and territories south of it; twenty per cent. in the value of the lands being deducted on account of decrease or loss in the revenue. The Peishwa *, or rather his minister (Ragonaut Rao), kept the Deccan entire, nor would he allow any of the passes to be improved, or the forts to be occupied by us. Bajee Rao was a weak and superstitious man, by descent a Brahman, but not of a high order. I am led to believe, not from reading, but from personal inquiry, that had Bajee Rao not lived in turbulent times, and been surrounded by bad ministers, he would not naturally have inclined to a vicious and cruel system. He had bitterly tasted the cup of adversity and misfortune, but it did not teach him prudence. The force he obtained from the British was a protection against his powerful and natural enemies, Holkar, Scindiah, the Guickvar, and the Bonsolo *The word signifies foremost, or prime or chief minister, the predecessors of Bajee Rao having usurped the authority of the descendants of the celebrated Sevajee, who were kept in honourable imprisonment at Satorah, whence all orders and power was supposed to emanate to the delegated Peishwa, who was de facto the prince of the country. Satorah signifies a star. (Nagpore Rajah): against these princes he was secure and safe, the powerful prince of a large fertile country, his capital situated on the banks of a large river, and commanding the high-road from Hindoostan to the sea-coast, and the large cities and towns to the westward and northward; it being the only outlet from the interior for commercial pursuits to all the low country. The city of Poona, under a more enlightened and liberal-minded prince, would have become one of the first cities in India. Bajee Rao had been a fugitive, stripped of his territories, and in want. Holkar had threatened to put out his eyes or starve him to death; but from religious feelings, and his being a Brahman, did not wish to kill him outright. He was not, however, to be taught prudence or gratitude; but must head the Mahratta conspiracy, in the late war, against the British, which ended in his overthrow and ruin. He is now in honourable captivity, with a pension of 100,000%. yearly. Had he fallen into any other hands than the British, his life would have paid the forfeit of his baseness and treachery. Three instances which I witnessed will speak of his actions: I believe they are not known in England; their insertion therefore will not be thought irrelevant. During the time I resided at Poona the Peishwa's prayers for an heir were granted. On this occasion Brahmans and Fakeers were invited to Poona from all parts to offer up sacrifices at the temple of |