was unavailing; and having a lady with me, whose fears were excited, I paid the required amount: and, singular as it must appear, although I had a dozen rupees in my hand, the Bheels only levied one out of that number. At this time, I was travelling on duty from Kaira to Baroda, to make preparations at the barracks against the arrival of some king's troops, who were to join the native army, and a part of the Guicvar's* troops, in some military operations about to commence against some refractory chiefs in Guzerat and Kattywar : but it was a subsequent campaign to that mentioned in a former page, where my corps was employed alone. Our mode of travelling this journey, in a sandy country, was in the Shigrumpo afore-mentioned. These are convenient vehicles, being hung on springs; they have sliding doors; and the two travellers, like as in a vis-à-vis, sit opposite each other. There is a well, or place for the legs, in the centre of the carriage; but this is usually covered over with cushions, and the parties lie at full length, or sit with their backs resting against a suspended pillow. In a flat and sandy country, like Guzerat, the journeys are often performed by night with * This word literally implies a "cow-keeper;" but he is the prince of the fine country of Guzerat, and a member of the old Mahratta family. In the late war, he had the good sense to keep clear of the confederacy; and Major J. R. Carnac's exertions and services on that score cannot be too highly appreciated. celerity and ease. The cattle by which they are drawn are the large, bony, white Guzerat bullocks, which in that country are of a particularly large. and fine breed; not so bulky as the English ox, but much taller and fleeter. The pair I had were an exact match in every point, trotted well, and were, when regularly worked, quiet animals. They cost me about 401. sterling, which sum I had been repeatedly offered for them; and I at length parted with them on account of a scurvy trick they played. As the relation of it will not occupy much space, and it will illustrate the exemplary character of a woman—and that woman being no other than my wife, and the best friend I ever had-I trust I may, as I draw towards the conclusion of my book, insert it without giving offence. CHAPTER XXIV. Female Tenderness, Fortitude, and Affection-Cambay-Spring Tides-Bheel Districts-Anecdotes-Goands-Coolis-Encampment-Night Attack-Description of Ahmed-Nuggur― Pettah-Hindoos-Moghuls-Portuguese-Sir A. Wellesley Interior of the Fort-Batteries-Guns-Inscriptions. STATIONED in that fruitful, but then very sickly country, I was barrack-master of the province, and had become quite blind in both eyes with ophthalmia :-my wife nearly the same; and both, during the phases of the moon, labouring on alternate days under ague and fever: so that it became necessary to proceed to Bombay for change of air*. While at the presidency, the carriage was newly painted, and the oxen standing idle: they were brought out, in order to give them an airing, on the third day, when they both jumped over and cleared a stone wall, nearly five feet high. Two days afterwards, having their Hindoo driver, * The population of the country, European and native, were labouring under the same disorder. My eldest child (now a very fine girl) was given over; and my youngest, not a year old, had leeches on both eyes every four or five days. Dr. West, who attended us, at last could not himself distinctly see, for ophthalmia. At this period there were twenty-two officers on the sea-coast at Cambay, out of thirty-five, suffering with fever and ophthalmia! N N whom they well knew and obeyed, and with the vehicle at their heels, I apprehended no danger. The beautifying of the machine being complete, I intended that my wife and two children should take an evening ride in that delightful island, Colaba. This she objected to, saying that the bul locks had better be exercised first. Happily was the suggestion uttered; for no sooner had the driver mounted his box, than off they started with the comparative fleetness of a race-horse, threw him, and broke his arm; then crossed the ferry road (it being low water), passing over rocks, and every thing that came in their way, in their progress to the island of Bombay; broke the Shigrumpo to pieces, and were the cause of much fear, and some mischief, to those who were taking their evening ride. Their freaks had caused them some injury, but a wealthy native gladly purchased them. There is a solicitude and tenderness in the female character that causes them to see danger, and even to anticipate evil, that man, conscious of his own strength and power of mind, is blind to; or, if he does see it, he imagines the mischief to be less, and danger more improbable, than kindhearted and affectionate woman. I must here, also, relate another anecdote, whatever may be the consequences to my literary or antiquarian fame. The woman to whom I have been alluding equals, in maternal feelings, in my estimation, the mother of the Gracchi. Reader, you have never been in the Gulf of Cambay during the spring tides, and if you have any regard for your own safety or comfort, you will never go there; nor would I, could I have helped it; but my duty called me thither, and I had no just idea of that dangerous and frightful place. It is full of shifting sands; and the spring tides rush in from the sea with an inconceivable force, fury, and noise, than which nothing can be more horrific or alarming. The noise made by the approaching waters in quitting the great deep may be faintly likened to the very loudest thunder, and it tumbles into this great reservoir at a rate of not less than 8 or 9 miles an hour*. At these awful periods (for it is at night they rise and rage most furiously), all nature appears heavy, sullen, and silent; not a breeze disturbs the waters in their impetuous and irresistible course; the full moon only tends to show the horrors and dangers of the scene; the vessel (Pattamars) will neither steer nor pull; hurried on by one frightful whirlpool into the vortex of another, she whirls about, and is driven along, regardless either of oars or helm. To anchor is impossible; for she would be buried in the overwhelming mass of waters. To sail is equally impracticable, for * I have seen the water of the Ganges and my running at 10 knots, this was in a journey |