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2

PART OF THE CITY OF POONA & FORT or SHUG HUR

A JOURNEY

TO THE

TEMPLES AT ELORA,

ETC. ETC.

CHAPTER I.

Regret at departure-Bombay and sister presidencies-Climate and scenery-Derivation of names-Docks at Bombay.

IN commencing my journey to the temples at Elora, three unpleasant circumstances presented themselves: first, in bidding adieu to a body of excellent men, with whom I had been in the habit of daily and friendly intercourse for a long period of time; secondly, a long and dreary journey before me, through the Mahratta country, of nearly three hundred miles; and lastly, in writing an account of my peregrinations. The latter was the most formidable of the three; but, as it is an act of choice, I must abide by the consequences. The two former circumstances so frequently occur to an officer in the Indian army, that, were it not from a respect to men whom I really loved, they would not have been alluded to. To them I owed many obligations, being the youngest officer in the

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corps; and whatever virtues or merits I may possess, I entirely owe to the example of that amiable, intelligent, and well-educated body of men. I shall not, however, unnecessarily occupy my pages in this tribute of deserved respect. At the period alluded to we were stationed on a pleasant little island called Versovah, or Isle de Mer, fourteen miles from Bombay. We had every amusement and comfort that men could require: an excellent mess, good houses, a number of books and newspapers, a sailing boat, a billiard-table, cricket, quoits, &c. Our station was also made more agreeable by a constant intercourse with Bombay; the journey to which place, both by land and water, was very agreeable, and rendered cool by the sea-breezes. The neighbouring island of Salsette abounded with picturesque and beautiful scenery; and the good-fellowship and gentlemanly feeling so common in the Company's military service uninterruptedly prevailed here. How fond are the recollections of our early days, when living in good society, the mind properly employed, and undisturbed by cares and vexations! It was, in fact, while I was unmarried, the happiest period of my life. I am sure, reader, your feelings will induce you to pardon this digression: it has cost me considerable pain in writing it; for, alas! out of fifteen officers, only myself and three others (Captains Barton, Wilson, and Wilkins) are now alive, a period of only fourteen years having

elapsed. I speak of those only present with the battalion of the regiment-all healthy, young, and abstemious men; while I myself have returned nearly deprived of the sight of my right eye, and à partial paralysis of my arms, from an excessive and unskilful use of Goulard extract during a protracted attack of ophthalmia. Indeed, had it not been for the skilful treatment of my esteemed friend, Dr. John Wylie*, at Nagpore, I should now probably be numbered with the dead, or perfectly useless for future service. Having said thus much to introduce myself to the reader, I will in future forego such personal narrative or retrospective recollections as appear unlikely to convey interest or information to the general reader.

Before embarking in our boat for Panwell, the first town on the continent, it will not be amiss to offer a few brief observations on the island of Bombay.

The climate of Bombay is preferable to most parts of India, having a refreshing sea-breeze,

* This medical officer is well known for the bravery he displayed, having actually commanded a part of the Bombay grenadier battalion during its desperate battle with upwards of 15,000 of the Peishwa's troops at Corygaum, after a fatiguing march of twenty-eight miles, under the gallant Major Staunton, in the late Mahratta war. They had only five officers, and not 800 men, opposed to this overwhelming force, yet they succeeded in making good their retreat to Seroor, twenty miles distant. As one half the glorious deeds performed in India are unknown to the British public, and, when known, but very imperfectly, my record may not be ill-timed.

commonly called, from its healthful effects, the Doctor. There is now very little wood on the island, no marshes, and but few large pools of stagnant water. To these causes much of the sickness that prevails in other parts of India must be attributed; and the salubrity of Bombay causes it to be resorted to by invalids from the other presidencies and the interior.

Nothing can be more delightful than the rides. and drives in this island: they extend twenty-one miles, and communicate to the neighbouring island of Salsette by means of a causeway. The prospect is as grand and as beautiful as can be imagined : the mighty range of the G'hats towering in the clouds and extending as far as the eye can reach; the bold views on the continent; the diversified objects on the island; old ruinous convents and monasteries erected by its former conquerors, the Portuguese; the noble country-houses of the Europeans; Hindoo pagodas, Mahometan mosques; the remains of Mahratta forts and buildings: these, with the rural appearance of Hindoo villages, where every patch of ground is richly cultivated or ornamented, and interspersed with groves of date and cocoa-nut trees, afford a prospect of luxuriance and beauty to be met with nowhere but in the Concan *. As we turn our

The population, under the government of Bombay, is estimated at 2,500,000. Square miles 11,000. The city of Bombay contains 170,000 inhabitants.

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