who built the temple in commemoration of some occurrence that befell him on the very spot. On the left of the Pagoda *, in a small niche, is a rude imitation of a Rakshi engaging an evil spirit. The whole of the building is in good repair, supported by a number of pillars, richly carved. In the front of the temple is a large tank: here a number of Hindoos were performing their ablutions, and saying their prayers. The place is retired; the variety of wild scenery, and the rising crops of grain in full ear, afforded an interesting prospect; while some high mountains to the eastward close the view. We must not omit to mention that extraordinary-looking object, Bhow-mullen rock, which rises, nearly perpendicular, to an immense height, while its centre is rent by an enormous chasm. It towers above the surrounding mountains in a stupendous and romantic form. The whole of the lower rock is strongly fortified, and garrisoned by Arabst in the pay of the late Peishwa, who, report says, kept a part of his jewels and treasures there. With shooting, and wandering about the town, we

* Major Moor says, this is an unauthorised word. Mr. Maurice, on the other hand, affirms it to be Persian, and gives its derivation.

The native princes show a great partiality to, and place great confidence in, Arab troops, who readily enter into their service. They do not desert the cause in which they embark; but, to a proverb, are brave, determined, and faithful. They are found in the strong holds of the native powers. General Wellesley, in his capture of Ahmed-nuggur, speaks of their fight

had employed the time till the forenoon. Our horses had arrived during the day via Tannah, which is a long day's journey from hence by land.

There are three modes of conveying luggage from this place to Poona: viz. coolies, tattoos*, and oxen. The hire is settled by a native officer appointed for that purpose by our government. His duty is to see that you are not imposed upon either by bad cattle or overcharges; and, moreover, it is his especial duty to use every exertion that the traveller may not be unnecessarily detained. Without this officer's assistance much inconvenience would be experienced. For the information of the traveller that is passing this road, I shall subjoin the established rates of hire: A cooly (porter), to carry 56 lbs.

ing with their usual obstinacy. During the assault of Baroda they fought bravely. I believe that our drilling and discipline are too much for the high spirit of an Arab to submit to however, they are never found to volunteer into the British native service. * Tattoos. These are a kind of small, cat-hammed, and illlooking ponies but they are hardy, and walk faster than oxen: † Reas are an imaginary coin: 100 reas make one quarter of a rupee-the rupee being divided into four quarters.

A station occupied by a part of the Madras army it is considered as a frontier of the Nizam's dominions.

The hire of the tattoo is, on all the above stages, half a rupee dearer than the ox: considering that they walk somewhat faster of the two, the tattoo is the most preferable animal for baggage. Every day that you make an extra halt, an allowance of a quarter of a rupee is to be paid to each cooly. It is ordered, likewise, that an advance amounting to one half of the hire is to be paid to your coolies, or to the owner of the cattle. There is no danger of their absconding on the road, as their houses and families are well known to the officer who procures them for you.

CHAPTER III.

Quit Panwell-Mode of travelling-Village of Choke and country -Return of my friends to Panwell-Indian travelling-Native governments-Capooly-Foot of the G'hats-Large tankHindoo girls bathing.

HAVING made the necessary arrangements during the afternoon, in hiring carriage for the transport of my luggage on the following morning at daybreak to the next stage at Choke, I devoted the remainder of the day to my friends, who all wished me very heartily every success, although they could not help thinking it was incurring a good deal of expense and trouble, and running some risk, as the country beyond Seroor was generally disturbed by some refractory chief or other, and frequently visited by banditti. These observations, however well intended, had no effect. I had obtained" leave of absence" from the government for the express purpose of visiting the temples of Elora*. When I applied to the public authorities at Bombay it was thought a serious and difficult

* On my return to Bombay the subject of Elora was a good deal talked of. Sir James Mackintosh, with a large escort commanded by an officer, shortly after proceeded to Elora, to whom I furnished a route of the journey.

journey, particularly as we were not then on very amicable terms with the Mahratta chief Holkar, in whose territories the temples then were. To a young and always ardent mind this objection appeared of very slight import: a little management with the natives is all that is necessary; and, if a man has health and a good stock of patience, he may surmount more difficult journeys than mine promised to be. I was always fond of travelling and seeking after any thing that was curious or new, or that promised to be interesting. I recollect once intending positively to join at a hog-hunt, when one of the party exclaimed S would

rather go cave* hunting, or have a tête-à-tête with some old Brahman. In this party I had better have taken the jocular hint of my friend; for in the hog-hunt I was dismounted, and a valuable Arab horse I rode nearly ripped up, by a charge from a furious boar.

After a pleasant evening with my friends at Panwell, at daybreak my baggage moved on. As the cavalcade may be new to the English reader, I subjoin a list. Three bullocks to carry

* In one of my visits to Amboulee caves, in company with Lieut. B————, we discovered a tiger asleep in a dark corner. We had no arms; but on bringing the villagers to the place their shouts awoke him, and he darted off through an opening into the jungle, which was close by. The remains of a bullock were found in the cave-a strange outrage upon a temple dedicated to Nundi!