of idols, and two small ones, on the side of the platform, are devoid of all images. Those rooms terminating the platform at the further or eastern end have probably been dormitories, or places of retirement for the priests. Such was the opinion of my Brahman, and the casual visitors, devotees and others, who occasionally accompanied me in my perambulations. The length from this spot to the entrance at the hall is 143 feet. The whole of these rooms have pyramidal roofs, which have been originally stuccoed and painted. In the papers of the Asiatic Society in Calcutta, it is said that the "smoky blackness" which now defaces the roofs is attributed to the emperor Aurungzebe, who caused them to be filled with straw, and set on fire but of this subject more in another place. The cause, in my opinion, may be otherwise accounted for.

The degraded priests of the present day are barbarians compared with their forefathers. With their usual indifference and apathy, they now make fires in the temples to cook their victuals with; and they perform pilgrimages here without intent or veneration, making them mere matters of curiosity and ceremony. On their arrival, their first care is to fill their bellies, go through a few prostrations and ridiculous ceremonies, and then stretch themselves out to sleep until they get hungry again. No man is more ignorant, bigoted,

and indolent than the Hindoo fakeer*; which is the general name, although it applies to mendicants, and holy men of the Mahomedan religion. Three of these small apartments are profusely and richly adorned with sculptured figures of the Hindoo mythology: some of them of very obscene delineation—a thing but too common in the writings and conversation of the Hindoos.

*P'huckeer, faquir, or fakeers, are a kind of anchorets-of which more in the proper place. With the Mahomedans they are itinerant mendicants-too wise to undergo the severe penances of their Hindoo brethren.

CHAPTER VII.

Arrangement for residing in Keylas-Treaty with the Devotees -Sphinx-Night Scene at Keylas-Researches-General Description of the basement Story-Great Lanca-Galleries of the Gods and Goddesses.

Hall of the great

OCTOBER 9, 1810, 3 P. M. temple of Keylas.-The researches of yesterday having closed up stairs, and my luggage and tent having been brought nearer, it became necessary to think about my arrangements for future days. My tent was pitched and my horse picqueted nearly in front of Keylas, in a fine open spot-a necessary precaution in India, on account of герtiles or beasts of prey; but I purposed residing entirely in the great hall of Keylas. A numerous body of Brahmans, devotees, and anchorets, were here on casual visits. Many of the former had allowances or stipends from the mother of the Mahratta chief Holkar, in whose territories these wonders were situated, and at that period were much frequented.

A number of armed men were in the neighbouring village of Elora, or Yerula. I knew, while I conciliated these people, and treated them with some degree of respect, having a guard of Siphauees and a very intelligent Brahman in my service, I

had not much to fear in the shape of

annoyance

or insult; but the religious party made many and great objections to a permanent residence in Keylas: however, the usual thing among the natives in India, a bribe

"Yea, it is gold that buys admittance,

Makes Diana's rangers false themselves-"

not in the shape of the precious metal, but in two or three bags of rice, bought for them by my Brahman (as my unhallowed hands and impurities would, in their estimation, have polluted the gift), appeared very acceptable to the fakeers: not that they were in want of it, but their wonted cupidity got the better of their scruples, and they acceded to my wish of residing in the temple. This arrangement, however, was not accomplished without certain stipulations, committed to writing, exchanged, and mutually ratified: they observing, with their usual flattery and cunning, that a Company's Sahib would not break his agreement, although they could not trust their own people, who were great rascals and liars. This side-wind compliment to the European is never received in any kind of ill-humour among each other, for they understand dissimulation and adulation as well as any people on the face of the earth. The restrictions they laid on me it was necessary to adhere to, as they delight in making a complaint,

being naturally of a litigious disposition. They will often put themselves to great expense and trouble to make the most fictitious charges, if it be only for the purpose of giving themselves consequence in the eyes of their followers or dependents; and though often no possible benefit can result from their misrepresentations, yet they will pursue a system of annoyance for weeks, giving themselves a vast deal of trouble in complaining, for the sole purpose of self-vanity in being listened to, and thought of some little importance in their village or community. These hints are not unnecessarily thrown out to those who may visit Elora.

I will now give the piece of diplomacy between the high contracting powers: it is short and explanatory, as all state papers ought to be. Whether there is any ability or address in the official document, is left to the better judgment of any of those gentlemen who lately met at Verona, should this work have the good fortune to fall into such hands.

Article 1.-The great hall of the temple is to be entirely evacuated by the fakeers of all orders, and the portico at the entrance to be likewise freed of all intruders.-Agreed to; but that my servants are on no account or pretence to cook meat, or smoke tobacco, within the walls.

Article 2.-That free ingress and egress are to be allowed to the devotees at certain hours for the