Mount Salette-Romantic details of the miracle-

Connivance of the Government and the superior

clergy in the imposture - Indignant expression of

public opinion-Schism in the Gallic Church-New

religious sect of the Saint Esprit Brotherhood-Some

accounts of their tenets-Character of the founder-

New dogma of the divinity of the Virgin Mary-

Its adoption by the Romish Church-Observations

on the character, influence, opinions, and conduct of

the clergy of the Gallic Church-Louis Napoleon and

the Parti Prêtre

94

CHAPTER VI.

Tour through Provence-Cannes and Lord Brougham—

English residents-The benefits they confer on the

inhabitants-Route from Cannes to Nice-Description

of Nice-Its advantages as a place of residence-The

good effects of a constitutional government 140

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Nice-Journey across the maritime

Alps-Beautiful scenery-Travelling companions-

Adventure at Oneglia - Italian towns - Arrival at

Genoa-Sketch of its ancient and modern history-

Illustrious men of Genoa-Increasing prosperity of

the town

157

CHAPTER VIII.

-

The Mediterranean steamers - Arrival at Leghorn-

Some account of that town- Austrian police

Insolence of Austrian officers- - Civita Vecchia -

Annoyances of the passport system-Coasting voyage

Passengers in the Neapolitan steamer - Swiss

officers and their recruits-Account of the Neapo-

litan and Sicilian insurrections-Dangerous tempest

-Arrival at Naples

-

CHAPTER IX.

179

Naples-Its origin-Its oppressive government-Sketch

of Naples under the rule of the Spaniards and the

French-Observations on the Government-The late

insurrection General discontent of the people —

National character - Neapolitan beggars - Popular

superstitions-Manners and customs of the people-

State of religion at Naples-Total neglect of public

instruction-Laxity of morals-Pantomimic commu-

nication

201

CHAPTER X.

Neapolitan patois-Story-tellers and street preachers-

The modern San Martino-His celestial vision and

sermon-Singular superstition respecting the Pope's

shirt -Tomasso of the Evil Eye - His history-

Superstitious belief of the Neapolitans in the Evil

Eye Characteristics of Naples - General observa-

tions

238

CHAPTER XI.

Preparations for leaving Naples-Railroad to Capua-

Neapolitan officers -A female Jesuit-An embar-

rassing position-Sketches of a tour from Capua to

Gaeta Account of Gaeta Miraculous efficacy

attributed to the chair of Pio Nono at Gaeta-Visit

to the Monastery of St. Benedict-The birth-place

of Cicero Interesting ruins at Arpino-Tomb of

Cicero-Itri and its supper of thrushes-Fondi

Arrival in the Papal States-Passports and Custom-

house officers-American firmness opposed to Papal

police-Sketch of Terracina and its environs-Cha-

racteristics of the mountaineers-Insalubrity of the

marshes

259

CHAPTER XII.

Journey to Rome-The Pontine Marshes-Causes which

led to the insalubrity of this district-Some account

of its ancient inhabitants, the Volsci-Defeat of the

Neapolitan army at Velletri by the Roman insur-

gents Sketches of the country between Velletri

and Albano-Ascent of Monte Cavo-Rocca di Papa

- Doubtful character of the inhabitants -Visit to

Frascati and Palestrina-Desolate character of the

country-Monasteries and nunneries-Their influence

in destroying the industry and morality of the people

-Observations on Papal misgovernment .

285

CHAPTER XIII.

Visit to the ruins of Adrian's Villa-Remains of the

country-house of Horace The Emperor and the

Poet-Insalubrity of the country-The Villa d'Este

-Tivoli-Inquiry as to the origin of the first in-

habitants of Rome-Arrival in the Eternal City—

Table-d'hôte-French Revolution-Dangerous excite-

ment at Rome-Tranquillity re-established-Jubilee

of the Papal Church-Grand procession. . 316

TOUR OF INQUIRY

THROUGH

FRANCE AND ITALY.

CHAPTER I.

Journey to Italy Landing at Boulogne-First impressions Passports and Custom-house officers - Pilgrimage to the shrine of Notre Dame de Boulogne— Her legend-Boulogne as a residence-French and English railroads-Route to Paris-The Octroi and universal suffrage-Paris and London contrastedModern improvements in Paris The Gauls and Anglo-Saxons-How necessary to each other.

To a man who has once imbibed a predilection for the life of a wanderer, a slight apology will suffice for indulging his inclination, and now on my return from the land of the Osmanli, the Greek, the Albanian, and the Slavonian,

VOL. I.

B